The Origins of the Stone Vessel

Perched 150 meters above the Caribbean, the Convento de la Popa derives its name from the hill’s resemblance to the stern of a ship—the popa. Established in 1607 by Augustinian Recollect friars, the convent was born from a divine vision. Legend says that Fray Alonso de la Cruz Paredes, while in Santa Fe de Bogotá, received a command from the Virgin Mary to build a monastery on the highest point of Cartagena. What began as a humble wooden structure soon evolved into the stone bastion of faith that has watched over the city for over four centuries.

A Fortress in the Clouds

The convent’s strategic location meant it could never remain purely spiritual. During the turbulent years of the 19th century, its thick walls served as a military lookout and a defensive stronghold. In 1815, during the brutal Siege of Cartagena by Spanish general Pablo Morillo, the convent was a site of desperate resistance. Even Simón Bolívar, the Liberator, recognized its tactical value, utilizing the heights to survey the movements of the Spanish fleet. The scars on its masonry are a testament to its dual identity as both a sanctuary and a sentinel.

The Legend of Buziraco and the Goat’s Leap

The most evocative tale of La Popa involves a dark deity named Buziraco. Before the friars arrived, the hilltop was allegedly a site of pagan rituals where a demon, manifesting as a black goat, was worshipped by local indigenous groups and escaped slaves. Upon his arrival, Fray Alonso is said to have confronted this entity. In a dramatic act of spiritual exorcism, he seized the goat and cast it over the edge of the cliff. Today, that precipice is still known as El Salto del Cabrón (The Goat’s Leap). Locals whisper that the spirit of Buziraco still lingers in the sudden, violent storms that occasionally lash the coast, a reminder of the ancient struggle between the old gods and the new faith.

The Virgin of Candelaria

At the heart of the convent’s chapel rests the gold-adorned image of the Virgin of Candelaria, the patroness of Cartagena. Her presence is considered the spiritual shield of the city, credited with protecting the inhabitants from the plague and the relentless pirate raids of the colonial era. Every year on February 2nd, the city participates in a massive pilgrimage. Thousands of devotees climb the winding road to the summit, often carrying candles, in a tradition that beautifully blends solemn Catholic liturgy with the vibrant, rhythmic heritage of the Colombian Caribbean.

Cultural Significance Today

The Convento de la Popa is more than a historical monument; it is the visual anchor of Cartagena’s identity. It represents the confluence of Spanish colonial ambition, religious fervor, and the indigenous and African myths that predate the city’s stone walls. For the modern traveler, it offers a narrative of transformation—from a site of ancient worship to a beacon of colonial power. It remains the premier vantage point to understand the geography of the Heroic City, offering a perspective that connects the modern skyscrapers of Bocagrande with the weathered fortifications of the Old Town.

• The Cloister: Note the flower-filled interior courtyard, which is considered one of the most beautiful in Colombia, featuring Spanish-style arches that provided cool relief for the friars.
• The Museum: Inside, visitors can find religious colonial art and relics that survived the various military occupations of the hill.
• The View: From the courtyard walls, one can see the entire bay, the Tierrabomba island, and the complex system of forts that made Cartagena the most protected port in the New World.