The Mirror of the High Plateau

The Laguna de los Pozuelos is not merely a body of water; it is a geological anomaly cradled within a vast depression of the Puna, over 3,600 meters above sea level. Formed millions of years ago through tectonic shifts that blocked the natural drainage of the surrounding mountains, it created what geographers call an endorheic basin—a place where water enters but never leaves, except by evaporating into the thin, dry air of the Andes. This process has concentrated minerals over eons, giving the lagoon its unique chemical composition and shimmering, ethereal appearance.

Historically, this region served as a vital corridor for the Omaguaca and later the Inca civilizations. These ancient peoples recognized the lagoon as an oasis of life in an otherwise inhospitable desert. The salt flats and marshes surrounding the water were essential for gathering salt and grazing camelids, forming the backbone of the trans-Andean trade routes that connected the high altiplano with the lower valleys of Humahuaca. It was a place of rest for the llama caravans that traveled between the Pacific coast and the lush eastern jungles.

Guardian of the Wild: The Legend of Coquena

To understand the soul of Pozuelos, one must know the story of Coquena. He is the invisible shepherd of the Puna, a mystical figure often described as a short man dressed in traditional wool clothes and a wide-brimmed hat. Legend says he has two hands: one of wool for stroking the animals, and one of lead for punishing those who mistreat them. Coquena is the divine protector of the vicuñas and guanacos that roam the shores of the lagoon.

Local shepherds tell of how Coquena punishes those who hunt for greed rather than necessity. If a hunter kills more than he needs, or uses a firearm instead of the traditional bolas, Coquena will lead him astray in the mountain mists or cause his livestock to vanish into the thin air. In the quiet of the evening, when the wind whistles across the water, the locals say it is the sound of Coquena’s flute as he guides his wild flocks to the safety of the hidden peaks. This legend has acted as a traditional form of environmental conservation for centuries, ensuring the survival of the delicate Andean wildlife.

The Mystery of the Pink Clouds

The most striking feature of the lagoon is its population of tens of thousands of flamingos, known locally as Parinas. There is an old Andean belief that these birds are the souls of ancestors returning to watch over the living. Their vibrant pink color is said to be a gift from the sun, captured as they fly closer to the heavens than any other creature in the Puna.

Observers have long noted the synchronized "dance" of the flamingos—a ritualized movement where thousands of birds march in unison across the shallow waters. To the local communities, this is not just a biological behavior but a sacred ceremony that ensures the harmony of the Pachamama (Mother Earth). Seeing the flamingos take flight at sunset, turning the sky into a shifting mosaic of rose and white, is considered a moment of profound spiritual cleansing for any traveler lucky enough to witness it.

Signification culturelle aujourd'hui

The Laguna de los Pozuelos remains a cornerstone of the identity of the Jujuy highlands. It was designated a Natural Monument in 1981, marking a shift from a site of resource extraction to one of deep ecological preservation. For the people of the nearby towns like Abra Pampa, the lagoon is a symbol of resilience and a source of life in a landscape defined by scarcity.

• A Sanctuary of Biodiversity: It is home to three distinct species of flamingos: the Andean, the James’s, and the Chilean flamingo, making it one of the most important wetlands in the world under the Ramsar Convention.
• Sacred Offerings: Every August, during the month of the Pachamama, locals perform the Challa near the water’s edge, burying food, coca leaves, and chicha to thank the earth for the water that sustains their herds.
• The Silent Sentinel: The lagoon acts as a climate indicator; its rising and receding waters tell the story of the region’s health, serving as a silent dialogue between the earth and the indigenous communities who listen to its rhythms.

A Note for the Storyteller

When standing at the edge of the lagoon, the silence is often absolute. It is a place that demands a quiet voice and a slow pace. Remind your guests that in the Puna, time does not move in a straight line—it circles like the wind, held in place by the ancient mountains and the shimmering reflection of the water. Encourage them to look for the tracks of the vicuña, for where the animal walks, the spirit of Coquena is never far behind.