A Geological Masterpiece

The Salinas Grandes were not built by human hands but by the slow, rhythmic passage of geological time. Approximately five to ten million years ago, this high-altitude basin was filled with a vast lake fed by mineral-rich waters from the surrounding volcanoes. As the climate shifted and the waters evaporated, they left behind a crust of salt nearly thirty centimeters thick. For the indigenous Omaguaca and Atacama peoples, this was not a barren wasteland but a vital treasury. They established a “salt road,” harvesting the mineral to trade for corn, coca leaves, and textiles from the lower valleys, a tradition of commerce that predates the Inca Empire.

The Malón de la Paz

In 1946, the silence of the salt flats was broken by a historic mobilization known as the Malón de la Paz (the March of Peace). Nearly 200 indigenous Kolla people, many of whom worked the salt mines under harsh conditions, began an arduous 2,000-kilometer journey on foot and by mule from the Puna to Buenos Aires. Their goal was to demand the restitution of their ancestral lands from the national government. While their arrival in the capital was met with political complexity, the march remains a foundational event in the identity of the region, symbolizing the enduring struggle for land rights and the deep spiritual connection the people have with the salt.

Legends of the High Plateau

The Guardian of the Puna

When standing amidst the blinding white expanse, you may notice the locals whispering to the wind. They are often speaking to Coquena, the mystical protector of the herds and the high plateau. Coquena is described as a small man dressed in traditional Andean woolens, carrying a golden whip. He is the invisible shepherd of the vicuñas and guanacos. Legend says he rewards those who treat the land with respect but punishes those who are greedy or wasteful. Before a harvest, salt workers often bury a small offering—a ritual known as a corpachada—to ask Coquena and the Pachamama (Mother Earth) for permission to take from the white earth.

The Whispering Eyes of the Salt

One of the most captivating features of the landscape is the Ojos del Salar (Eyes of the Salt Flat). These are natural springs that bubble up through the crust, creating deep, turquoise pools. Local folklore suggests these pools are bottomless and serve as “eyes” through which the earth watches the heavens. Some stories tell of ancient travelers who, lost in the shimmering heat and the deceptive mirages of the midday sun, followed the “voices” of the water, believing the pools to be gateways to a subterranean world where time ceases to exist.

Signification culturelle aujourd'hui

Today, the Salinas Grandes are a site of delicate balance between tradition and the modern world. The local communities continue to harvest salt using ancestral techniques—cutting large rectangular pits into the surface and allowing the sun to crystallize the mineral. However, the region has recently gained global attention as part of the “Lithium Triangle.” For the people of Purmamarca and the surrounding highlands, the salt flats are not just a resource or a tourist destination; they are a sacred landscape. Every grain of salt carries the memory of their ancestors, making the preservation of this white desert a matter of cultural survival.

Interesting Facts for the Journey

• The Mirror Effect: During the rare summer rains, a thin layer of water covers the flats, creating a perfect reflection of the sky. This phenomenon blurs the horizon, making it impossible to tell where the earth ends and the heavens begin.
• Salt Architecture: In the vicinity, you will find small buildings and furniture crafted entirely from blocks of salt, demonstrating the incredible versatility of this mineral in a land where wood is scarce.
• The Altitude: Situated at 3,450 meters above sea level, the Salinas Grandes demand a slow, contemplative pace. The thin air and the intense reflection of the sun create a sensory experience that is as much internal as it is visual.