The Carretera Austral in Chile: Complete Guide for Motorcycle Riders

Pre-Ride Checklist: Bike, Gear, and Paperwork

Your Motorcycle

Tires

We strongly recommend fitting 50/50 dual-sport tires or more aggressive off-road knobbies. Much of the Carretera Austral consists of compacted gravel, known locally as ‘ripio’. These surfaces can be loose, unpredictable, and littered with sharp stones. Road-oriented tires will struggle significantly, compromising both safety and enjoyment.

Maintenance

• A fresh oil and filter change before you depart is essential.
• Inspect your chain and sprockets for wear. Ensure the chain is thoroughly cleaned, lubricated, and tensioned correctly before the trip.
• Check the life of your brake pads and the level and condition of your brake fluid.
• The ‘ripio’ sections are incredibly dusty. Check your air filter and carry a spare or a cleaning kit to service it along the way.

Essential Toolkit

• A comprehensive tire repair kit is non-negotiable. Include plugs for tubeless tires, patches for tubes, a reliable pump or CO2 inflator, and tire irons.
• Carry wrenches, sockets, and Allen keys that are specific to your motorcycle’s fasteners.
• A small roll of duct tape, a handful of zip ties, and a tube of JB Weld can solve a surprising number of roadside issues.
• Pack spare clutch and brake levers, as these are often the first casualties in a minor drop.
• Even if you run tubeless tires, carry a spare front inner tube. It can be used in either the front or rear tire in an emergency.

Luggage

Soft panniers or a rackless luggage system are highly recommended over hard aluminum cases. In the event of a fall, particularly on loose gravel, soft bags absorb impact and are less likely to break or cause injury. Regardless of your choice, ensure your entire luggage setup is completely waterproof, as Patagonian rain is persistent and can appear without warning.

Your Riding Gear

Layering System

Patagonian weather is famously unpredictable. A versatile layering system is the only way to stay comfortable. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer (merino wool or synthetic), add an insulating mid-layer (fleece or a light down jacket), and finish with a fully waterproof and windproof outer shell (jacket and pants). This allows you to adapt to temperature swings from freezing mornings to sunny afternoons.

Helmet

A dual-sport helmet offers the best of both worlds: a large visor for protection from rain and wind on paved sections, and a peak to shield your eyes from the sun on long gravel stretches.

Gloves

Bring at least two pairs of gloves. One pair should be waterproof and insulated for cold, wet days. A second, lighter pair will be more comfortable for warmer, drier conditions and provide better dexterity.

Boots

Full-height, sturdy, and waterproof adventure or motocross boots are a critical piece of safety equipment. They provide essential protection for your ankles and shins against rocks and in the event of a fall.

Personal Locator Beacon (PLB)

We strongly recommend carrying a satellite communication device, such as a Garmin inReach or a SPOT tracker. Large portions of the Carretera Austral have no cellular service. A PLB allows you to send pre-set messages to family and, most importantly, trigger an SOS signal in a serious emergency.

Essential Documents

• Vehicle Registration: You must carry the original ‘Padrón’ (vehicle ownership document) or the equivalent documents provided by your rental company.
• Driver’s License & IDP: Carry your valid home country driver’s license along with an International Driving Permit (IDP).
• Mandatory Insurance (SOAP): The ‘Seguro Obligatorio de Accidentes Personales’ (SOAP) is a basic third-party insurance that is legally required for all vehicles circulating in Chile. Ensure your policy is current.
• Passport & Visa: Your passport must be valid for the duration of your stay. Upon entering Chile, you will receive a ‘tarjeta de turismo’ (tourist card) from the PDI (immigration police). Do not lose this document; you will need it to exit the country.
• Printed Copies: Keep physical photocopies of all your important documents stored separately from the originals in a waterproof bag.

Navigating the Route: North to South

Section 1: Puerto Montt to Chaitén

• Road Condition: This initial section is mostly paved and serves as a gentle introduction to the journey, punctuated by several scenic ferry crossings.
• Key Ferries:
  • Caleta La Arena to Caleta Puelche: A short, frequent crossing that does not require advance booking.
  • Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo (The Bimodal Route): This is a longer, multi-hour journey that is essential to continue south. You must book this ferry well in advance, especially during the high season (December to February), as it fills up quickly.
• Highlights: The stunning landscapes of Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park and the charming fjord-side town of Hornopirén.

Section 2: Chaitén to Coyhaique

• Road Condition: Here, the true character of the Carretera Austral reveals itself. You will encounter a mix of smooth pavement and long, challenging sections of ‘ripio’. This is where the real adventure begins; ride with caution and be prepared for changing surfaces.
• Highlights: The world-class whitewater rafting hub of Futaleufú (a worthy detour), the breathtaking Hanging Glacier in Queulat National Park, and the German-influenced village of Puyuhuapi.
• Fuel Stops: Fuel can become scarce in this section. Plan to fill your tank at every opportunity. Key fuel locations include Chaitén, La Junta, and Puyuhuapi. Do not risk skipping a station.

Section 3: Coyhaique to Villa O’Higgins

• Road Condition: South of Coyhaique, the route is predominantly gravel ‘ripio’. This is the most remote, challenging, and arguably most rewarding part of the entire journey.
• Highlights: The jagged peaks of Cerro Castillo, the impossibly blue waters of General Carrera Lake and its famous Marble Caves (Capillas de Mármol), the unique boardwalk village of Caleta Tortel, and the final, epic stretch of road to Villa O’Higgins.
• Key Ferry: A small ferry crosses the fjord from Puerto Yungay to Rio Bravo. This is a short, frequent crossing that is operated by the government and is typically free of charge.
• End of the Road: Reaching the sign that marks the official end of the Carretera Austral in Villa O’Higgins is a profound moment. It signifies the completion of one of the world’s greatest road trips, a true accomplishment for any adventure rider.

Daily Logistics on the Road

Fuel Planning: The Golden Rule

Adopt this simple rule and you will avoid trouble: Never pass a gas station without filling up. Even if you have half a tank, top it off. You never know if the next station is open or has fuel available.

• Fuel Range: Before you leave, calculate your motorcycle’s maximum fuel range on a full tank. Use this number to plan your daily rides and identify critical refueling points.
• Carrying Extra Fuel: For the remote southern sections (south of Cochrane), carrying extra fuel is highly recommended. A collapsible fuel bladder from brands like Giant Loop or an MSR Dromedary bag is an excellent, space-efficient option.
• List of Towns with Fuel: You can reliably find fuel in Hornopirén, Chaitén, Futaleufú, La Junta, Puyuhuapi, Coyhaique, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Cochrane, and Villa O’Higgins. Note that smaller towns may not have fuel.

Accommodation

• Camping: Wild camping is generally tolerated and a great way to experience Patagonia, but always practice ‘Leave No Trace’ principles. There are also many excellent established campsites (often part of a local family’s property) with basic facilities.
• Hospedajes & Cabañas: These are the backbone of Patagonian lodging. ‘Hospedajes’ are small, family-run guesthouses, and ‘cabañas’ are self-contained cabins. They offer a warm bed, a hot shower, and a glimpse into local life. Look for simple, hand-painted signs on the roadside.
• Booking Ahead: During the peak season of January and February, it is wise to book your accommodation in larger towns like Coyhaique and popular spots like Puerto Río Tranquilo in advance to avoid disappointment.

Connectivity & Communication

• Cell Service: Expect cellular service only in and around larger towns. Entel is generally considered the provider with the most extensive coverage in the region. Outside of towns, you will have no signal.
• Wi-Fi: Most hostels, cafes, and restaurants offer Wi-Fi, but connections can be slow and unreliable, especially in more remote locations. Do not count on it for large downloads.
• Offline Maps: This is absolutely crucial. Before you lose connectivity, download the entire region’s maps onto your phone using an app like Google Maps or Maps.me. Also, load a GPX track of the route onto a dedicated GPS device if you have one.

Riding Conditions & Safety

Mastering the ‘Ripio’ (Gravel)

• Technique: The key to riding ‘ripio’ is to relax. Stand on the footpegs to lower your center of gravity, keep your eyes looking far ahead (not at your front wheel), use smooth and gentle throttle and brake inputs, and maintain a steady momentum.
• Tire Pressure: Lowering your tire pressure by 20-30% from the recommended road pressure will significantly increase your tire’s footprint, providing better traction and a more comfortable ride on gravel. Remember to re-inflate for paved sections.
• Grading Machinery: Be extremely cautious when you encounter road grading machinery. They often leave behind a thick, deep layer of loose gravel that can be very difficult to ride through. Slow down and choose your line carefully.

Weather: Expect All Four Seasons in One Day

• Patagonian Wind: The wind can be a relentless and powerful force. When hit by a strong crosswind, lean the bike into the wind and maintain a steady throttle. Be prepared for sudden gusts, especially when coming out from behind hills or forests.

– Rain: Rain is a constant possibility. It makes the ‘ripio’ slick and can turn dusty sections into slippery mud. Your waterproof gear is your best friend. Slow down and increase your following distance in wet conditions.

On-Road Hazards

• Potholes & Washouts: The road surface can change in an instant. Be vigilant for large potholes and sections of road that may have been damaged or washed out by recent heavy rains.
• Animals: The Carretera Austral is a working landscape. Expect to share the road with sheep, cattle, and wild guanacos. They are often unf