Transportation : how to Get around in Argentina – a guide for first timers

Argentina’s Scale: Planning Your Long-Distance Travel

The first thing to comprehend about Argentina is its immense size. It is the eighth-largest country in the world, stretching from the Tropic of Capricorn to the subantarctic tip of South America. To travel from the subtropical Iguazú Falls in the north to the glacial landscapes of Patagonia in the south is a journey of over 3,000 kilometers. This scale is not just a geographical fact; it is the single most important factor in planning how you will move between regions. While overland travel offers its own rewards, attempting to see multiple, distant parts of the country without flying is often impractical for those with limited time.

Domestic Flights: The Fastest (and Sometimes Best) Option

For any itinerary that includes more than one major region—such as combining Buenos Aires with Patagonia or the Northwest—domestic flights are a near necessity. A 20-hour bus journey can be reduced to a two-hour flight, fundamentally changing what you can accomplish on your trip. The domestic air network is robust, connecting major cities and key tourist destinations.

• Major Airlines: The main players are the national carrier, Aerolíneas Argentinas, which offers the most extensive network, and the low-cost airlines Flybondi and JetSMART, which often provide competitive pricing on popular routes.
• Key Airport Hubs: In Buenos Aires, you will encounter two primary airports. Ezeiza (EZE) is the main international gateway, located far outside the city center. Most domestic flights, however, operate from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP), which is conveniently located within the city limits in the Palermo neighborhood. Always double-check your ticket to ensure you are going to the correct airport.
• Booking Tips: For the best fares, book several weeks or even months in advance, especially for travel during the high season (December-February and July). Use price comparison websites to survey your options, but consider booking directly with the airline. Pay close attention to baggage allowances on low-cost carriers, as the base fare often includes only a small personal item.

Long-Distance Buses (Micros): The Country’s Backbone

The long-distance bus, or micro, is a fundamental part of Argentine life and a viable, often comfortable, way to travel. The network is vast, reaching nearly every town and village in the country. For journeys under 10-12 hours, or for travel between cities not connected by a direct flight, the bus is an excellent choice.

Understanding Service Classes

The comfort of your journey is directly related to the service class you book. For overnight trips, investing in a better seat is highly recommended.

• Cama: Often called “cama suite” or “cama ejecutivo,” this is the premium option. Seats typically recline 180 degrees into a fully flat bed, arranged in a 1-2 configuration for more space.
• Semi-Cama: The standard for most long-distance travel, these seats recline significantly (around 140 degrees) and offer ample legroom. They are perfectly adequate for daytime travel and manageable for overnight journeys.
• Ejecutivo: A term that can sometimes overlap with Cama, it generally signifies a higher-end service with wider seats and more amenities than Semi-Cama.

The Experience and How to Book

Major bus companies like Andesmar, Chevallier, and Vía Bariloche operate from large, organized terminals. The main hub in Buenos Aires is the bustling Terminal de Ómnibus de Retiro. Onboard, you can expect amenities like air conditioning, a restroom, and movies (usually dubbed in Spanish). For longer journeys, a simple meal (dinner and/or breakfast) and drinks are often included. You can book tickets online through platforms like Plataforma 10 or Central de Pasajes, which aggregate schedules from multiple companies. Alternatively, you can always purchase tickets in person at the bus terminal, which can be useful for last-minute travel.

Trains: A Scenic but Limited Network

Argentina’s once-glorious passenger train network is now quite limited, serving primarily as a commuter service around major cities. For the long-distance traveler, trains are less about efficiency and more about the experience itself. They offer a slow, romantic way to see the landscape unfold, but should be considered a tourist activity rather than a practical mode of transport between major destinations.

• Key Routes for Tourists: The two most famous tourist trains are the Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds) in Salta province, an engineering marvel that climbs to over 4,200 meters, and the Tren Patagónico, which traverses the vast Patagonian steppe from Viedma on the Atlantic coast to Bariloche in the Andes.
• Experience vs. Efficiency: You choose a train for the journey, not the destination. It’s for those who want to disconnect and watch the world go by at a leisurely pace. The services are comfortable but not fast.
• Booking and Availability: Tickets for these scenic routes, especially the Tren a las Nubes, are in high demand and must be booked well in advance, particularly during peak tourist seasons.

City Navigation: Mastering Urban Transport

Once you’ve arrived in one of Argentina’s vibrant cities, a different set of transportation challenges and opportunities awaits. From the historic subway of Buenos Aires to the ubiquitous city bus, urban travel is an experience in itself. Here’s how to navigate the city streets with confidence.

The SUBE Card: Your Universal Transit Pass

The single most important item for navigating cities in Argentina is the SUBE (Sistema Único de Boleto Electrónico) card. This blue rechargeable card is your key to accessing public transport in Buenos Aires and dozens of other cities, including Bariloche, Mendoza, Córdoba, and Salta. Without it, you simply cannot use most city buses or the subway system.

• Where to Get It: You can purchase a SUBE card for a small fee at Subte (subway) stations in Buenos Aires, at many “kioscos” (small convenience stores), and at national lottery shops that display the SUBE logo. You will need to present your passport to register the card.
• How to Recharge: To add credit (“cargar saldo”), you can visit the same locations where they are sold or use dedicated recharging machines in subway stations. While some apps allow for digital top-ups, these can be complex for visitors. The most straightforward method is to pay with cash at a kiosco or ticket window.
• How to Use It: On a bus (colectivo), you board at the front, tell the driver your destination (or simply say “un boleto” for the minimum fare), and he will set the price on the machine. You then tap your card on the reader. For the Subte, you simply tap your card on the turnstile to enter the station.

Colectivos: Riding the City Bus Like a Local

The city bus, or colectivo, is the lifeblood of urban Argentina. With countless lines crisscrossing every neighborhood, they can take you almost anywhere. At first, the system can seem chaotic, but it’s remarkably efficient once you understand the basics.

• Signaling for a Stop: Buses do not automatically stop at every designated parada (bus stop). You must signal for the bus you want by extending your arm as it approaches. To get off, press one of the red buttons located on the handrails inside the bus well before your intended stop.
• Using Apps for Routes: Figuring out which of the hundreds of bus lines to take is nearly impossible without help. Download a local transit app. For Buenos Aires, the government’s Cómo Llego app is excellent. Moovit is another reliable option that works in multiple Argentine cities.
• Etiquette: Boarding is always done at the front door. After paying with your SUBE card, move toward the back to make room for others. It is customary and appreciated to give up your seat to the elderly, pregnant individuals, or people with small children.

The Subte: Buenos Aires’s Subway System

The Buenos Aires subway, known as the Subte, is the oldest in Latin America and a convenient way to cross large distances of the capital quickly. Its six lines are identified by letters and colors (Líneas A, B, C, D, E, H) and connect major commercial, tourist, and residential areas.

• Navigating the System: Maps are available in every station and online. Signs indicating “Andén 1” or “Andén 2” point to the platforms for different directions, usually listed by the name of the final station on that line. Connections between lines are called “combinación.”
• Peak Hours and Safety: Like any major subway system, the Subte can become extremely crowded during peak morning and evening rush hours (roughly 8-10 am and 5-7 pm). During these times, be particularly mindful of your belongings. Pickpocketing can occur, so keep your bags closed and in front of you.

Taxis vs. Remises: Know the Difference

For direct, door-to-door service, taxis and remises are your primary options. While they seem similar, they operate on different principles.

Taxis

In Buenos Aires, you can’t miss the fleet of iconic black and yellow cars. These are the city’s official taxis. You can hail one on the street—look for a car with its red “libre” (free) light on in the windshield. Taxis are required to use a meter, known as the “reloj,” which calculates the fare based on distance and time. It’s a reliable option for spontaneous trips around the city.

Remises

A remis is a private-hire car that operates from a specific base or office (“remisería”). You cannot hail a remis on the street; you must book one by phone or by visiting their office. The key difference is that the fare is a fixed price agreed upon in advance. This makes them an excellent choice for trips to and from the airport or for journeys where you want certainty about the cost before you depart.

Safety Tips

While most drivers are professional, it’s wise to use caution, especially at night. Instead of hailing a random cab on the street, consider using an app to call one or asking your hotel or restaurant to call a trusted “radio taxi” service for you. Always ensure the driver’s identification is visible inside the vehicle.

Ride-Sharing Apps in Argentina

Ride-sharing apps have become a popular alternative to traditional taxis and remises in Argentina’s larger cities. The landscape is a bit different from what you might be used to at home.

• Available Apps: Uber is present in cities like Buenos Aires, Córdoba, and Mendoza, but Cabify is often considered a more established and fully regulated competitor. Didi has also entered the market, providing another option.
• The Legal Gray Area: The legal status of some ride-sharing platforms can be ambiguous, leading to occasional friction with local taxi unions. Don’t be surprised if your driver asks you to sit in the front passenger seat to appear less like a paid ride, especially near airports or major transport hubs.
• User Experience: The apps work just as they do elsewhere. However, payment with foreign credit cards can sometimes be unreliable. It’s a good idea to have a cash payment option enabled in your app as a backup. The service is generally safe and provides a convenient way to get around without language barriers.

Freedom to Roam: Car Rentals and Regional Transport

While public transport connects Argentina’s major hubs effectively, some regions are best explored with a degree of autonomy. For those who wish to set their own pace and venture off the beaten path, renting a car or hopping on a ferry can unlock a different side of the country.

Renting a Car in Argentina

Hiring a car offers unparalleled freedom, particularly in vast, scenic areas like Patagonia or the high-altitude deserts of the Northwest. It allows you to stop at will for a photograph, explore a side road, or linger in a small village. However, this flexibility comes with its own set of considerations.

• Pros: The primary advantage is complete control over your itinerary. You can access remote trailheads, national parks, and viewpoints that are difficult to reach via public transport. It is often the most practical way to explore regions like the Seven Lakes Route near Bariloche or the Quebrada de Humahuaca near Salta.
• Cons: Renting a car in Argentina can be more expensive than in other parts of the world, and fuel costs add up over long distances. Road conditions vary dramatically, from well-maintained highways to challenging gravel roads (ripio), especially in southern Patagonia. Distances are immense, so be prepared for long driving days.

Necessary Documents

To rent a vehicle, you will typically need to present the following:

• A valid passport.
• Your home country’s driver’s license.
• An International Driving Permit (IDP). While not always requested by rental agencies, it is a legal requirement in Argentina and essential if you are stopped by police.
• A credit card in the driver’s name for the security deposit. Debit cards are generally not accepted for this purpose.

Key Considerations

Before you book, think about the specifics of your trip. Driving in the mountainous, high-altitude Northwest, with its winding roads and occasional unpaved passes, is a different experience from navigating the long, straight, and sometimes wind-battered highways of Patagonia. Consider checking the best time to visit Argentina for your driving plans.

Most rental cars in Argentina have a manual transmission. If you require an automatic, be sure to book well in advance and expect to pay a premium, as they are in limited supply. Finally, ensure your rental includes comprehensive insurance coverage. While basic liability is often included, opting for a policy with a lower deductible (or full coverage) provides peace of mind on unfamiliar roads.

Understanding Tolls (Peajes)

On major highways (autopistas), particularly those radiating from Buenos Aires and other large cities, you will encounter toll booths known as peajes. These are cash-only, so it is wise to keep a supply of smaller Argentine Peso notes readily accessible in your vehicle. The fees are generally modest but can be frequent when entering or leaving urban centers. For more on managing your finances, see our Argentina Money Guide.

Ferries and Boats: Water-Based Journeys

In a country with such a long coastline and numerous lakes, water travel is sometimes the most direct or scenic way to get from one point to another. These journeys are often destinations in themselves.

Crossing the Río de la Plata

From Buenos Aires, a popular and easy international excursion is crossing the Río de la Plata to Uruguay. Two main companies, Buquebus and Colonia Express, operate frequent services. You can take a fast ferry (around one hour) to the charming historic town of Colonia del Sacramento for a day trip, or a longer ferry (around three hours) to the capital, Montevideo. It’s a seamless way to add another country to your South American travels.

Tourist Boats in Patagonia

In Patagonia, boats are an integral part of the sightseeing experience. These are less about transit and more about accessing breathtaking natural wonders.

• In Bariloche, boat excursions across Lake Nahuel Huapi take you to destinations like Victoria Island and the Arrayanes Forest, offering stunning perspectives of the snow-capped Andes from the water.
• In El Calafate, boat trips on Lago Argentino are essential for getting close to the immense face of the Perito Moreno Glacier. Hearing the thunderous crack of ice calving into the turquoise water from the deck of a boat is an unforgettable experience. This is one of the top tourist sites in Patagonia.

Essential First-Timer Tips and Etiquette

Navigating a new country comes with its own set of unwritten rules and practical considerations. In Argentina, a little local knowledge goes a long way in ensuring your travels are smooth and enjoyable. From when to book your tickets to how to pay for a taxi, these essential tips will help you get around with confidence.

Booking and Scheduling

Timing is a key element of travel planning in Argentina. The country’s vast size and seasonal popularity mean that a spontaneous approach isn’t always the most practical, especially when covering long distances.

• Book in Advance During High Season: Argentina’s peak tourist seasons are during the summer (December to February) and the winter school holidays (July). During these periods, as well as around national holidays, flights, popular long-distance bus routes, and scenic trains can sell out weeks or even months in advance. It is highly advisable to book your long-haul transport well ahead of time to secure a seat and avoid inflated prices.
• Embrace “Argentine Time”: While flights and major long-distance buses generally run on schedule, a more relaxed approach to punctuality is common in daily life. Local city buses (colectivos) may not adhere to a strict timetable, and minor delays are frequent. It’s best to build some flexibility into your itinerary and not worry if things run a few minutes behind.
• Dealing with Strikes (Paros): Strikes and demonstrations, known locally as paros, are a part of the national landscape and can occasionally disrupt public transport, including subways, buses, and even flights. They are usually announced in advance. Keep an eye on local news or ask your hotel staff for information, and always have a potential backup plan, especially on the day you need to get to an airport.

Paying for Your Ride

Argentina has a unique financial landscape that travelers should be aware of. While digital payments are growing, cash remains an essential part of daily transactions, especially for transportation.

• Cash is King: Always carry a sufficient amount of Argentine Pesos (ARS). You will need cash to recharge your SUBE card at most kioscos, pay for taxis hailed on the street, and cover tolls (peajes) if you’re driving. While some taxi drivers may accept digital payments, it is not guaranteed. Having smaller bills is particularly useful for short rides.
• Using Credit Cards: Credit cards are your best option for booking flights, long-distance buses, and rental cars online. They are also widely accepted at major bus terminals and airports. However, for everyday city transport, they are rarely used. Inform your bank of your travel plans to avoid any issues.
• Tipping Etiquette: Tipping is not obligatory for taxi or remis drivers, but it is a common and appreciated gesture. For a standard taxi ride, it’s customary to simply round up the fare to the nearest convenient amount. For a remis driver who provides excellent service, such as helping with heavy luggage or offering a particularly smooth airport transfer, a small tip of around 10% is a kind gesture.

Useful Spanish Phrases for Getting Around

While you can certainly get by with English in major tourist hubs, learning a few basic Spanish phrases will not only make your journey easier but will also be warmly received by Argentinians. A small effort to speak the local language can open doors and enrich your experience.

• Greetings & Politeness:
  • Hola – Hello
  • Por favor – Please
  • Gracias – Thank you
  • Disculpe / Permiso – Excuse me / Pardon me
  • Buen día – Good morning
  • Buenas tardes – Good afternoon/evening
• Key Questions:
  • ¿Dónde está la parada de colectivo? – Where is the bus stop?
  • ¿Este colectivo va a [La Boca]? – Does this bus go to [La Boca]?
  • Un boleto a [Palermo], por favor. – One ticket to [Palermo], please.
  • ¿Cuánto cuesta? – How much is it?
  • ¿Me puede llevar a esta dirección? – Can you take me to this address? (Useful for taxis)
  • La cuenta, por favor. – The bill, please. (Less for transport, but good to know!)
• Essential Numbers for Fares:
  • Cien – 100
  • Doscientos – 200
  • Quinientos – 500
  • Mil – 1,000
  • Dos mil quinientos – 2,500