Nabusimake Travel Guide

Understanding Nabusimake: The Spiritual Heart of the Sierra Nevada

What is Nabusimake?

Nestled deep within the valleys of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Nabusimake is far from a typical tourist destination. It is the sacred spiritual capital of the Arhuaco indigenous people, a place of profound cultural and cosmic importance. This is not a town built for visitors, but a living community where tradition is upheld and the spiritual balance of the world is maintained. The name itself, Nabusimake, translates to “the land where the sun is born,” a title that reflects its central place in the Arhuaco worldview.

Here, the highest spiritual authorities, the Mamos, gather to make decisions that affect their community and, in their belief, the entire planet. It is a center for traditional law, community assembly, and sacred rituals that have been practiced for centuries. To enter Nabusimake is to step into a space governed by a different rhythm, one dictated by nature, ancestral wisdom, and the “Law of Origin.”

The Arhuaco People: Guardians of the Earth

The Arhuaco, also known as the Ika people, are one of the four indigenous groups who inhabit the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. They are distinguished by their traditional white tunics and conical hats, which symbolize the sacred snow-capped peaks of the mountains. More than just inhabitants, the Arhuaco see themselves as the “elder brothers” of humanity, tasked with the sacred duty of protecting the ecological and spiritual integrity of their ancestral land.

Their entire existence is guided by a complex philosophy known as the “Law of Origin.” This is an unwritten code that dictates a harmonious relationship between humans, nature, and the spiritual realm. Central to this belief is the concept of the Sierra Nevada as the “Heart of the World.” For the Arhuaco, this mountain range is a living, sentient being; its rivers are the veins, its peaks the head, and its health is directly connected to the well-being of the entire planet. The Mamos, their spiritual leaders, dedicate their lives to maintaining this delicate balance through meditation, offerings, and consultations with the natural world. You can learn more about the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, and the nearby town of Santa Marta.

A central element of Arhuaco male identity is the poporo, a hollowed-out gourd filled with powdered seashells. Men use a stick to mix the lime with toasted coca leaves held in their mouths, creating a chemical reaction. This is not a recreational act but a profound form of meditation, a constant prayer and a tool for connecting with the spiritual world. The growing mound of lime and saliva on the poporo’s neck represents a man’s life experience and wisdom.

Why Visit? Setting Intentions for a Respectful Journey

A journey to Nabusimake should be understood as a privilege, not a right. The Arhuaco community opens its spiritual home on its own terms, and access is granted to those who approach with the correct intentions. This is not a trip for ticking off a bucket list item or capturing the perfect photo for social media. It is an invitation to learn, to listen, and to witness a way of life deeply connected to the earth. Consider exploring other unique cultural experiences in Colombia, such as understanding the craft behind the Colombian Mochila.

The primary goal of a visit should be cultural immersion and respectful exchange. It is an opportunity to support the community directly and to understand their perspective on environmental stewardship. Visitors are expected to arrive with an open mind, a humble spirit, and a genuine desire to understand a worldview that may be vastly different from their own. The most valuable thing you can bring to Nabusimake is a respectful heart, and the most valuable thing you can take away is a deeper understanding of our planet’s interconnectedness.

Planning Your Trip: The Essential First Steps

Is Nabusimake Open to Visitors?

The first and most critical thing to understand is that Nabusimake is not a public destination with open gates. Access for non-indigenous visitors is a privilege granted by the Arhuaco community, and it can be revoked at any time. The status of entry is dynamic and depends entirely on the decisions of the Mamos and community leaders.

It is absolutely essential to verify the current access status before making any plans. Permission is always required. Access is often restricted for a variety of important reasons, including:

• Ceremonial Periods: The Arhuaco calendar is governed by natural cycles. During important spiritual ceremonies, the community requires privacy and tranquility, and the territory is closed to outsiders.
• Spiritual Guidance: The Mamos may receive guidance that requires the land to rest and be cleansed of outside influences for a period.
• Environmental Protection: To prevent ecological damage and allow nature to regenerate, the community may limit the number of visitors or close access entirely.

The Crucial Permit: How to Get Permission to Enter

Gaining permission to enter Nabusimake is a formal process that underscores the sacred nature of the place. You cannot simply show up and expect to be let in. The process requires patience, respect, and working through the proper channels.

• Contact Official Channels: The only legitimate way to arrange a visit is by contacting an officially recognized Arhuaco organization or a community-approved tourism operator that works directly with the Arhuaco authorities. These groups are authorized to request permits on behalf of visitors.
• Travel with an Authorized Guide: A permit to enter is always tied to an authorized local Arhuaco guide. This guide is not just a tour leader; they are your host, cultural interpreter, and the community’s designated liaison, ensuring your visit is conducted respectfully.
• Do Not Attempt to Go Independently: Attempting to enter Nabusimake on your own is deeply disrespectful and will result in being turned away. It violates the community’s autonomy and sacred laws. Independent travel is strictly forbidden.

When is the Best Time to Go?

If you are granted permission, timing your visit carefully can enhance your experience and align with the region’s natural rhythms. The primary consideration is the weather in the Sierra Nevada. The dry season, which typically runs from December to March, is generally the most favorable time. During these months, the rugged road is more passable, and hiking conditions are better with less rain. This region is also known for its incredible natural beauty, offering some of the Top 10 Best Hikes in Colombia.

The rainy season, from roughly April to November, can make the journey significantly more challenging, with the potential for washed-out roads and constant downpours. It’s also important to be aware that the community may close access around key celestial events like the solstices and equinoxes for private ceremonies. Your authorized operator will be aware of these dates.

Due to the very limited number of permits issued, it is crucial to plan and book your trip well in advance, often several months ahead. This is not a last-minute destination; it is a deliberate journey that begins long before you set foot in the mountains.

The Journey to the Sacred Valley

The pilgrimage to Nabusimake is as significant as the arrival itself. It is a gradual transition, a physical and mental ascent from the familiar world into a realm governed by different rhythms and laws. This journey is not a simple commute; it is the first step in preparing your mind and spirit for the experience ahead.

Getting to Pueblo Bello

Your journey into the Sierra Nevada begins in Pueblo Bello, a pleasant, coffee-growing town nestled in the foothills. This is the last outpost of the modern world and the primary gateway to Arhuaco territory. It serves as the staging ground where preparations are finalized before you head into the mountains.

Reaching Pueblo Bello is relatively straightforward. Regular buses and shared taxis (colectivos) depart from the main terminals in larger cities like Valledupar (the closest) and Santa Marta. The ride offers scenic views as you leave the Caribbean lowlands and climb into the mountains. Alternatively, you can arrange for private transport, which offers more comfort and flexibility, often coordinated by your tour operator.

While in Pueblo Bello, you will typically meet your guide and wait for your 4×4 transport to be ready. This is an excellent opportunity to:

• Enjoy a final cup of high-quality, locally grown coffee at a town cafe.
• Purchase any last-minute necessities, though you should arrive fully prepared.
• Withdraw sufficient cash, as there are no ATMs or electronic payment options beyond this point.
• Take a moment to mentally disconnect and set your intentions for the journey.

From Pueblo Bello to Nabusimake

The final leg of the journey is an adventure in itself. A rugged, unpaved, and often challenging road winds its way from Pueblo Bello deep into the sacred valley. This path is impassable for conventional vehicles, making a robust 4×4 vehicle an absolute necessity.

You will not need to arrange this transport yourself; it is an integral part of the permitted, guided trip and will be handled by your Arhuaco guide or the approved organization you are traveling with. The drivers are local experts who know every turn and stone on the difficult route.

The drive typically takes between two and four hours. This wide time frame is due to the road’s condition, which can change dramatically with the weather. After heavy rains, the path can become muddy and slow, requiring expert navigation. This is not a journey to be rushed; patience is key.

What to Expect on the Road

As your vehicle rumbles and climbs, the world outside transforms. The journey offers a stunning visual narrative of the Sierra Nevada’s incredible biodiversity. You leave the bustling energy of Pueblo Bello behind and enter a landscape of profound tranquility and natural beauty.

The scenery shifts from neatly organized coffee and cacao farms on the lower slopes to dense, misty cloud forests dripping with life. Waterfalls cascade down mountainsides, and the air grows cooler and cleaner. With every kilometer, you ascend further into the pristine environment that the Arhuaco have protected for centuries.

More than just a change in altitude, this drive is a palpable shift in atmosphere. The sounds of traffic are replaced by the sounds of the forest and the river. The sense of leaving the modern world behind is profound, creating a mental space that prepares you for the deep peace and spiritual weight of Nabusimake.

Life and Experience Within Nabusimake

Arriving and First Impressions

The end of the rugged road doesn’t lead to a town square, but to a profound sense of tranquility. Nabusimake unfolds not as a destination, but as a living, breathing community in harmony with its surroundings. The village is a collection of traditional stone and mud huts, known as bohíos, with thatched roofs that blend seamlessly into the green valley. At its center stands the most important structure, the conical ceremonial house, or kankurwa, a place of spiritual authority and gathering. The air is clean, filled only with the sounds of nature and the gentle murmur of the crystal-clear Nabusimake River, which flows through the heart of the village. The atmosphere is one of deep peace and quiet intention. Upon arrival, you will be met by your authorized guide and introduced to your host family, your first step into a world governed by ancient rhythms.

Accommodations: Staying with the Community

Your stay in Nabusimake will be a genuine immersion into the Arhuaco way of life, which means leaving modern comforts behind. Accommodations are simple, typically in a designated bohío for visitors or as part of a homestay with a local family. These rustic dwellings offer basic shelter and a place to rest, providing an authentic connection to the environment. It is crucial to set your expectations accordingly:

• Amenities: Electricity is often non-existent or available for very limited periods. Running water may be available, but it will be cold mountain water. Do not expect hot showers.
• Connectivity: There is no Wi-Fi, and cell service is extremely unreliable or completely absent. This is an opportunity to disconnect from the digital world and connect with the present moment.
• Experience: The value of this experience lies in its authenticity. Falling asleep to the sounds of the Sierra and waking with the sun offers a rare glimpse into a life of simplicity and deep connection to the earth.

Activities with a Purpose

A visit to Nabusimake is not about ticking off a list of tourist attractions. Instead, it is a series of opportunities for learning and connection, all of which must be facilitated by your local Arhuaco guide. Every activity is an act of cultural exchange, undertaken with permission and respect for the sacredness of the land.

Guided Hikes to Sacred Sites

Your guide may lead you on walks through the valley to specific areas where visitors are permitted. These hikes are not merely for recreation but are journeys to understand the Arhuaco relationship with their territory. You might be taken to a viewpoint overlooking the valley, a cascading waterfall, or a natural pool in the river like Pozo Global. It is vital to understand that the vast majority of the surrounding mountains, rivers, and stone formations are sacred and strictly off-limits to outsiders. Your guide will delineate these boundaries; they must be respected without question.

Learning from the Community

The most meaningful part of your visit will be the quiet moments of observation and respectful interaction. You will witness daily life as it unfolds, always maintaining a respectful distance unless invited closer. Through conversations facilitated by your guide, you can begin to understand the profound Arhuaco cosmology, their “Law of Origin,” and their role as guardians of the “Heart of the World.” You may also have the opportunity to learn about the intricate process of creating mochilas, the iconic woven bags that carry deep spiritual symbolism in every thread. This is a chance to listen and learn, not to interview or intrude.

The Sacred Nabusimake River

The river that flows through the village is not just a source of water; it is the lifeblood of the community and a site of spiritual cleansing and connection. For the Arhuaco, water is a sacred element used for purification and maintaining balance. As a visitor, you must treat it with the highest reverence. It may be appropriate to bathe or swim, but only in designated areas and at specific times, and only after your guide has confirmed it is permissible. This ensures that your presence does not interfere with ceremonial or daily uses of the river by the community.

Essential Rules of Respect and Cultural Etiquette

A visit to Nabusimake is an invitation into a sacred, living culture. Your ability to enter and experience this space is entirely dependent on your commitment to respecting the community’s laws and traditions. Adhering to the following guidelines is not optional; it is a fundamental requirement of your journey.

The “No Photos” Rule

This is perhaps the most important and non-negotiable rule for visitors. There is a strict prohibition on taking photographs or recording videos within Nabusimake, especially of the Arhuaco people, their homes, and ceremonial sites. This is not about being unfriendly; it is about protecting the privacy, spiritual integrity, and cultural sovereignty of the community. The Arhuaco worldview does not separate the physical from the spiritual, and images can be seen as an intrusion or an extraction.

You must operate under the assumption that photography is forbidden everywhere. On rare occasions, your guide may explicitly grant you permission to photograph a specific, distant landscape. Unless you receive this direct and clear consent for a particular view, your camera and phone must remain put away.

Dress and Behavior

Your presence should be one of quiet observation and humility. This is reflected in both your clothing and your conduct. The goal is to blend in, not to stand out.

• Attire: Dress modestly and conservatively. This means wearing long pants and long-sleeved shirts. Avoid shorts, tank tops, and revealing clothing. Opt for neutral, earth-toned colors like beige, brown, or green, and avoid bright, flashy patterns or colors.
• Conduct: Move through the village with a calm and gentle demeanor. Speak in a low voice and avoid loud conversations or laughter. Your actions should contribute to the tranquility of the environment, not disrupt it.
• Prohibitions: The consumption of alcohol, recreational drugs, and cigarettes is strictly forbidden within the territory. Do not bring these items with you.

Asking for Permission

The concept of personal and community space is paramount. Never assume you have the right to enter a home (a bohío), walk down a path that deviates from the main one, or touch any object, plant, or stone. Everything has a purpose and a spiritual place. Your guide is your essential intermediary. If you wish to interact, ask a question, or understand something better, always speak to your guide first. They will navigate the interaction in a culturally appropriate manner, ensuring that no boundaries are crossed.

Supporting the Community Ethically

Your visit can provide a positive economic contribution if done correctly. The most meaningful way to support the community is by purchasing their traditional crafts directly from the artisans.

• Purchasing Crafts: The Arhuaco are famous for their intricate mochilas (woven bags). If you wish to buy one, ask your guide to facilitate a direct purchase from a weaver. This ensures the full payment goes to the person who created it. You can learn more about the significance of these beautiful bags in our Colombian Mochila: A Deep Dive article.
• Pagamento: Your trip may include a form of “pagamento,” or spiritual payment, to the land for your presence. This is a traditional offering or ritual performed by the Mamo or your guide to maintain balance and ask for permission from the spiritual guardians of the territory.
• Gift-Giving: Avoid the impulse to hand out candy, money, or random gifts, especially to children. This can create dependency and disrupt social structures. If you feel a strong desire to contribute, have a private conversation with your guide. They can advise on whether a contribution to the community school or a specific project would be appropriate and how to do it respectfully.

What to Pack for Your Journey

Packing for Nabusimake requires a thoughtful balance between practicality for a rugged mountain environment and respect for a sacred, traditional community. Your luggage should be light, functional, and mindful of the principles of simplicity and minimal impact that govern life in the Sierra Nevada.

Essential Clothing and Gear

The weather in the Sierra Nevada can change quickly. Days can be warm and sunny, while nights become surprisingly cold. The key is to pack versatile layers that can be adapted to fluctuating temperatures and potential rain.

• Sturdy, broken-in hiking boots or shoes: The terrain is uneven and often muddy. Comfortable, waterproof footwear with good grip is non-negotiable. For more challenging treks, consider our guide to the Salento & Cocora Valley: A Visitor’s Guide.
• Layers: Pack a combination of moisture-wicking T-shirts, long-sleeved shirts for sun and insect protection, and a fleece or warm jacket for the chilly evenings and early mornings.
• A reliable rain jacket: Rain can fall at any time of year, even during the dry season. A waterproof and breathable jacket is essential to stay dry and comfortable.
• Sun protection: The high altitude means stronger UV rays. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and a high-SPF, biodegradable sunscreen.

Health and Safety

You will be in a remote area with limited access to medical facilities. It is crucial to be self-sufficient and prepared for minor health issues. Your guide will have a basic kit, but you should bring your own personal supplies. It’s always wise to review the Bogotá Travel Guide before your trip.

• Personal first-aid kit: Include basics like bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, blister treatment, and any personal medications you require. Ensure you have enough for your entire trip.
• Strong insect repellent: Mosquitoes and other biting insects are present. Choose a high-quality repellent; an eco-friendly, biodegradable option is highly preferred to minimize environmental impact.
• Water purification tablets or a filter bottle: While the water in the mountains is often pure, it is always safest to treat it before drinking to prevent any stomach issues.

Other Necessities

Modern conveniences are not part of the Nabusimake experience. Planning for this lack of infrastructure is key to a smooth and comfortable journey.

• Cash in Colombian Pesos: There are absolutely no ATMs or card facilities in Nabusimake. Bring enough cash to pay your guide, your host family, and to purchase any authentic mochilas or crafts directly from artisans. Understanding the Medellín Travel Guide can help with your financial planning.
• A headlamp or flashlight: With limited to no electricity, a reliable light source is essential for navigating after dark, whether inside your hut or walking around the village.
• A portable power bank: If you need to keep a phone or camera charged (for use in permitted areas), a fully charged power bank is your only option.
• A reusable water bottle: Help protect this pristine environment by avoiding single-use plastics. You can refill your bottle with purified water.

What NOT to Bring

What you leave behind is as important as what you pack. Bringing certain items is considered deeply disrespectful to the Arhuaco people, their culture, and the sanctity of their land. This is not a suggestion; it is a firm rule of entry.

• Drones, speakers, and unnecessary electronics: Drones are an invasion of privacy and spiritual space. Loud music from speakers shatters the profound peace of the valley. Leave laptops and tablets behind to fully immerse yourself in the experience.
• Single-use plastics: The community has no system for managing outside waste. Pack out everything you pack in and avoid bringing disposable plastic bottles, bags, and packaging.
• Valuables and expensive jewelry: These are unnecessary and out of place. They create a barrier between you and the community and can be a source of worry. Simplicity is the guiding principle.

Beyond the Visit: The Impact of Your Journey

A journey to Nabusimake does not end when you descend from the Sierra Nevada. The experience is designed to leave a lasting impression, not just as a memory, but as a responsibility. The true value of your visit is measured by the understanding you carry with you and the respect you continue to show long after you’ve left.

Understanding Regenerative Travel

Visiting Nabusimake is a practical application of regenerative travel, where the goal is to leave a place better than you found it—not just environmentally, but culturally and spiritually. When conducted with intention and through the proper channels, your presence can be a positive force for the Arhuaco community.

A respectful visit, arranged with authorized guides, provides a sustainable economic alternative that directly empowers the community. This income helps the Arhuaco protect their ancestral lands from external threats like mining and deforestation, and it supports the continuation of their unique cultural practices. It allows them to engage with the outside world on their own terms, reinforcing their autonomy and ensuring that their traditions, language, and spiritual knowledge are passed to future generations.

Carrying the Message Home

The Mamos consider the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta to be the Heart of the World. They believe that its health is intrinsically linked to the health of the entire planet. As a visitor, you are entrusted with a small piece of this profound message: that humanity must live in balance with nature to ensure our collective survival.

Reflecting on this message is part of the journey. The experience invites you to reconsider your own relationship with the natural world and your consumption patterns. Sharing what you have learned is important, but it must be done with great care.

• Share the wisdom, not the location. When you speak of your journey, focus on the Arhuaco worldview, the lessons about ecological balance, and the importance of indigenous wisdom. Avoid turning Nabusimake into a “must-see” destination or a trendy spot on social media.
• Honor their privacy. Do not post photos of the people or the village, even if you were granted rare permission for a specific shot. Describe the feeling and the teachings rather than revealing sensitive visual details that could encourage disrespectful tourism.
• Advocate for their cause. The most powerful way to honor your visit is to support the broader efforts of indigenous communities to protect their territories and preserve their cultures.

A visit to Nabusimake is less about what you see and more about what you come to understand. It is an opportunity to witness a community living in deep harmony with the earth and to carry that perspective back into your own life. The lasting impact is not a collection of memories, but a subtle and profound shift in how you walk through the world.