Practical guide to visit Bariloche

Planning Your Bariloche Adventure

When to Go: A Tale of Two Seasons

Bariloche’s character transforms dramatically with the seasons, offering two distinct yet equally compelling experiences. Choosing when to visit depends entirely on the activities you wish to pursue, as the Patagonian climate dictates the rhythm of life in this mountain town.

Summer (December – February)

This is Patagonia in its most vibrant state. Summer brings long, sunny days perfect for exploring the region’s natural splendor. It’s the ideal time for hiking through lush forests, kayaking on the crystal-clear waters of Nahuel Huapi Lake, and cycling the scenic routes. The extended daylight hours allow for full days of adventure. However, this idyllic weather comes with a caveat: it is undeniably the peak tourist season. Expect larger crowds at popular viewpoints and higher prices for accommodation and flights. To secure your preferred lodging and activities, booking several months in advance is not just recommended; it is essential.

Winter (June – August)

As winter arrives, Bariloche becomes a snow-covered wonderland. This is the prime season for winter sports enthusiasts, with Cerro Catedral, South America’s largest ski resort, as the main attraction. The landscape is breathtakingly picturesque, with snow-dusted peaks and frozen lakes creating a serene, magical atmosphere. Days are shorter and temperatures drop significantly, making it a time for cozy evenings by the fire after a day on the slopes.

Shoulder Seasons (March-May & September-November)

For those seeking a more tranquil experience, the shoulder seasons offer a perfect balance. In autumn (March to May), the forests erupt in a spectacular display of red and gold foliage, particularly in April. Spring (September to November) brings a burst of life, with wildflowers blooming across the hillsides. During these months, you’ll find fewer crowds, more competitive pricing, and a peaceful ambiance. The trade-off is the weather, which can be highly unpredictable; you might experience sun, rain, and even snow, all in a single day.

How Long to Stay

The vastness of the region means you could spend weeks here and still not see everything. The ideal duration of your stay depends on your interests and pace of travel.

• The Quick Trip (3-4 Days): This allows you to cover the absolute essentials. You can drive or cycle the iconic Circuito Chico, take the chairlift up Cerro Campanario for its famous panoramic view, and spend time in the town center enjoying the chocolate shops.
• The Standard Visit (5-7 Days): A week is an excellent amount of time to get a true feel for Bariloche. This timeframe allows for the highlights, plus several rewarding hikes, a full-day boat excursion on the lake, and ample time to relax and savor the local cuisine and craft beer.
• The Deep Dive (8+ Days): For avid hikers and those wanting to explore beyond the immediate area, a longer stay is highly rewarding. You can tackle more challenging treks like the one to Refugio Frey, or take day trips to nearby towns like the charming Villa La Angostura or the bohemian enclave of El Bolsón.

What to Pack

Patagonian weather is famously fickle, and proper preparation is key to a comfortable trip, regardless of the season. The local saying, “if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes,” holds true here.

• Layering is Key: This is the most important packing principle. Bring a combination of short and long-sleeved t-shirts, a fleece or warm mid-layer, and a high-quality waterproof and windproof outer jacket. This system allows you to adapt to changing conditions throughout the day.
• Footwear: A pair of comfortable, broken-in, and waterproof hiking boots is non-negotiable. Even for simple walks, the terrain can be uneven. Pack comfortable shoes for relaxing in the evening as well.
• Sun Protection: The sun at this altitude is surprisingly strong, even on cloudy days or in winter. Pack high-SPF sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and quality sunglasses to protect yourself.
• Winter Essentials: If visiting between June and August, your list must include thermal underwear, waterproof ski pants and jacket, warm wool socks, a beanie, and insulated gloves.
• General Items: A reusable water bottle is essential for staying hydrated on hikes. Argentina uses Type I power outlets, so bring a suitable adapter. And of course, don’t forget your camera to capture the spectacular landscapes.

Getting There and Getting Around

Arriving in Bariloche

Nestled deep in Patagonia, reaching Bariloche is part of the adventure. Fortunately, whether you prioritize speed or scenery, there are straightforward options to get you to the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake.

By Air

The most efficient way to arrive is by flying into San Carlos de Bariloche Airport (BRC). The airport is well-connected with multiple daily direct flights from Buenos Aires’ two main airports (the domestic Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, AEP, and the international Ezeiza International Airport, EZE). You can also find direct flights from other key Argentine cities like Córdoba and Mendoza, especially during the high season.

Once you land, you have several options for the 25-minute journey into town:

• Remis: These are private, fixed-rate taxis that you can book at a kiosk inside the arrivals hall. It’s a hassle-free and comfortable option, especially with luggage.
• Bus: A public bus (line 72) connects the airport with the city center. You will need a SUBE card to pay the fare.
• Rental Car: Several rental agencies have desks at the airport, allowing you to pick up your vehicle upon arrival and start exploring immediately.

By Bus

For the budget-conscious traveler with time to spare, long-distance buses offer a scenic and economical way to reach Bariloche. Comfortable “cama” (bed) or “semi-cama” (reclining seat) buses connect the city with destinations across Argentina, including Buenos Aires, Mendoza, and El Calafate. While it’s a great way to see the vast landscapes of the country, be prepared for the duration; the journey from Buenos Aires, for example, is a significant commitment of over 20 hours.

Navigating the Area

Once you’ve settled in, you’ll find that exploring Bariloche and its stunning surroundings can be done in several ways, depending on your itinerary and travel style.

Renting a Car

A rental car provides the ultimate freedom and flexibility. It allows you to explore the Circuito Chico at your own pace, stop at every viewpoint, discover hidden beaches, and easily access trailheads that are further afield. This is highly recommended if your accommodation is located along the “Kilómetros” of Avenida Bustillo, outside the main city center. To ensure availability and better pricing, it’s wise to book your car well in advance, particularly for visits during the peak summer or winter seasons.

Public Transportation (Colectivo)

Bariloche’s local bus system, known as the “colectivo,” is an effective way to reach many key attractions. To use the bus, you must purchase and load a SUBE card, which is available at many small shops (kioscos) throughout the city. Regular routes connect the downtown area with popular spots like the Llao Llao Peninsula (line 20) and the base of Cerro Catedral (line 55). While affordable, be aware that buses can become crowded, and their frequency may be lower than what you’d expect in a large capital city.

Taxis and Remises

Taxis are readily available in the city center and can be hailed on the street. Remises, which operate on a fixed-fare basis, can be booked by phone or by visiting their office. Both are good options for shorter trips, traveling to a specific restaurant in the evening, or for moments when you don’t have a loaded SUBE card handy.

Where to Stay: Finding Your Perfect Base

Choosing where to stay in Bariloche can fundamentally shape your trip. The region offers distinct areas, each with its own character, from the convenient and bustling city center to serene lakeside hideaways that feel a world away.

The City Center (Centro)

The heart of the action, Bariloche’s Centro is where you’ll find the main cluster of shops, tour agencies, and the famous chocolate boutiques along Mitre Street. It’s a practical and lively base for exploring the region.

• Pros: The primary advantage is convenience. Everything is walkable, from restaurants to the Civic Center and the lakefront. It’s the main hub for public transportation, making it easy to get around without a vehicle.
• Cons: The central location can be noisy, especially during peak season. It provides more of a town experience and lacks the immersive “in nature” feeling found further out.
• Best for: First-time visitors, travelers without a car, and those on a budget who can take advantage of the many hostels and more affordable hotels.

Along Avenida Bustillo (Kilómetros)

Stretching west from the city for 25 kilometers, Avenida Bustillo hugs the southern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi. Accommodations and points of interest here are identified by their kilometer marker. This sprawling area is dotted with hotels, charming cabins (cabañas), and restaurants, all with varying degrees of proximity to the lake.

• Pros: The main draw is the breathtaking lake and mountain views. Staying here provides direct access to quiet beaches, trailheads for popular hikes, and a genuine sense of Patagonian tranquility.
• Cons: A car is highly recommended. While a public bus serves the avenue, relying on it can be time-consuming, and amenities are spread out over significant distances.
• Best for: Families, couples, and visitors who prioritize scenic beauty and a peaceful environment over urban convenience.

Llao Llao Peninsula

At the far western end of Avenida Bustillo lies the Llao Llao Peninsula, the most exclusive and scenic corner of Bariloche. This area is defined by the iconic Llao Llao Hotel, pristine forests, secluded bays, and the surrounding golf course. It is the epitome of Patagonian luxury.

• Pros: This location offers an unparalleled immersion in nature. The scenery is spectacular, and the atmosphere is one of serene seclusion, with numerous walks and viewpoints right on your doorstep.
• Cons: This is the most expensive area to stay in. Its relative isolation means a trip to the city center is a longer journey, making it less convenient for frequent town visits.
• Best for: Luxury travelers and those celebrating a special occasion who seek ultimate relaxation and a deep, undisturbed connection with the natural landscape.

Top Sights and Activities

Bariloche’s allure lies in its spectacular natural setting, a landscape of crystalline lakes, dense forests, and snow-dusted Andean peaks. The region offers a remarkable range of activities, from serene scenic drives to demanding mountain treks, ensuring every visitor can connect with the Patagonian wilderness.

The Unmissable Scenic Drives

Some of the most iconic Patagonian vistas are accessible directly by road. These routes are journeys in themselves, with each turn revealing a new, postcard-worthy scene.

Circuito Chico (The Small Circuit

This is the quintessential Bariloche experience. The 60-kilometer paved loop winds along the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi, offering a concentration of the region’s most famous views. It’s a perfect introduction to the area’s geography and beauty.

• Key Stops: Don’t miss the chairlift ride up Cerro Campanario for what National Geographic once named one of the top 10 views in the world. Other essential stops include the Punto Panorámico for a stunning vista of the Llao Llao Peninsula and the historic Llao Llao Hotel.
• How to Explore: The circuit is easily navigated by rental car, allowing you to stop at the many viewpoints (miradores) and quiet beaches at your leisure. Alternatively, you can take a local bus (line 20) or, for the physically ambitious, rent a bicycle for a challenging but rewarding day.

Circuito Grande (The Large Circuit)

For those with a full day and a desire to see more of the Seven Lakes region, the Circuito Grande is an excellent choice. This longer route heads north out of Bariloche, passing through varied landscapes of river valleys and Patagonian steppe before reaching the charming mountain town of Villa La Angostura. From there, it follows a portion of the famous Route of the Seven Lakes, offering a different perspective on the Andean lake district.

Hikes for Every Fitness Level

Bariloche is a hiker’s paradise, with an extensive network of trails leading to mountain huts (refugios), hidden lakes, and panoramic summits. Always check trail conditions before setting out, especially in the shoulder seasons.

• Easy: For a gentle and enchanting walk, the Sendero de los Arrayanes on the Llao Llao Peninsula offers a flat trail through a unique forest of cinnamon-colored Arrayán trees. The easy trails around Lago Moreno also provide beautiful lake access without significant elevation gain.
• Moderate: The hike up Cerro Llao Llao rewards with spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding lakes and mountains. Another popular option is Cerro Otto; while you can hike to the top, many opt to take the cable car up and walk down, enjoying the views along the way.
• Challenging: The trek to Refugio Frey is a classic Patagonian experience. This full-day hike takes you through a forest and up a mountain valley to a stunning granite cirque with a small alpine lake, where a mountain hut provides shelter and food for overnight trekkers.

Lake Nahuel Huapi Adventures

The vast, deep-blue expanse of Lake Nahuel Huapi is the heart of the national park. Getting out on the water provides a completely different perspective of the landscape and is an essential part of any visit.

Boat Excursions

Several boat tours depart from Puerto Pañuelo, near the Llao Llao Hotel. These professionally guided trips are a relaxing way to access remote parts of the lake.

• Isla Victoria and Bosque de Arrayanes: This classic full-day tour is a visitor favorite. It includes a visit to the national park’s largest island, Isla Victoria, with its towering conifer forests, and a walk through the unique Arrayanes forest on the Quetrihué Peninsula.
• Puerto Blest and Cascada de los Cántaros: This journey takes you down the westernmost arm of the lake, deep into the lush, temperate Valdivian rainforest. The high humidity in this area creates a dense, green landscape, culminating in a walk up a series of boardwalks alongside the powerful Cascada de los Cántaros waterfall.

Kayaking and Stand-Up Paddleboarding

For a more active and intimate experience on the water, renting a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard is an excellent option. On a calm day, paddling along the shoreline offers tranquility and a chance to discover secluded beaches. You can find rental gear at several spots along the lakefront, such as Playa Bonita and Playa Serena.

Winter Sports at Cerro Catedral

During the winter months, Bariloche transforms into a premier winter sports destination. Cerro Catedral is the main draw, boasting the largest skiable terrain in all of South America. Its modern lift system and extensive network of runs cater to every ability, from first-time skiers on the gentle lower slopes to experts seeking challenging off-piste terrain. Beyond the sport itself, the views from the upper mountain are breathtaking, with the snow-covered Andes stretching out in one direction and the immense, dark blue of Lake Nahuel Huapi in the other.

Savoring Bariloche: Food and Drink

Beyond the breathtaking landscapes, Bariloche offers a culinary journey deeply rooted in its European heritage and Patagonian environment. From world-class chocolate to rustic, fire-cooked meats, the flavors here are as memorable as the views.

The Famous Chocolate Scene

Bariloche’s alpine aesthetic is perfectly matched by its status as Argentina’s chocolate capital. A walk down the main street is an intoxicating experience, with the rich aroma of cacao wafting from every other doorway. The shops are destinations in themselves, showcasing beautifully crafted creations that blend Swiss tradition with local ingredients. This is not just a treat; it’s an essential part of the town’s identity.

• The Main Street (Mitre): This is the heart of the action, a veritable chocolate mile lined with artisanal shops, or chocolaterías. Each offers free samples, making for a delightful (and filling) stroll.
• Must-Try Shops: While exploring is part of the fun, be sure to visit local institutions like Rapa Nui, which features an indoor ice rink, the award-winning Mamuschka, and the classic Frantom.
• What to Get: Don’t leave without trying chocolate en rama, delicate, flaky sheets of chocolate that melt in your mouth. A cup of thick, velvety hot chocolate is the perfect remedy for a chilly day, and a communal chocolate fondue is a classic Bariloche experience.

Patagonian Specialties

The cuisine of Patagonia is honest, hearty, and cooked with fire and patience. It reflects a history of pioneers and a deep connection to the land, focusing on high-quality, locally sourced game and fish.

• Cordero Patagónico: The undisputed star of regional cuisine is slow-roasted Patagonian lamb. Typically cooked “al asador” (on a cross over an open fire), the meat becomes incredibly tender and flavorful after hours of slow cooking. For more on exploring this region, check out our guide to Visiting Argentinian Patagonia.
• Trucha: The pristine lakes of the region provide an abundance of fresh trout. You’ll find it on nearly every menu, often served simply grilled with herbs and butter to highlight its delicate taste.
• Ciervo: Venison is another local staple, appearing in rich, comforting stews (goulash), as smoked cold cuts on a charcuterie board (picada), or as a lean, flavorful steak.

Craft Beer and Local Breweries

Thanks to the pure mountain water and a pioneering spirit, Bariloche has blossomed into a major hub for craft beer in South America. Dozens of breweries, from small pubs to large operations, offer a fantastic range of styles in lively, welcoming atmospheres.

• Bariloche’s thriving craft beer scene offers the perfect way to unwind after a day of hiking or skiing.
• Popular Breweries: A visit to Cervecería Patagonia is a must, located on the Circuito Chico with what might be the best brewery view in the world. In the city center, Manush and Berlina are bustling brewpubs beloved by locals and visitors alike for their quality brews and cozy ambiance.

Essential Practical Tips

Money and Currency

Navigating the financial landscape in Argentina requires a bit of planning. The official currency is the Argentine Peso (ARS), and its value can fluctuate. While major hotels, upscale restaurants, and large tour operators in Bariloche will accept credit cards, it’s wise not to rely on them exclusively.

• Cash is King: Many smaller establishments, local markets, and even some taxi services operate on a cash-only basis. Carrying a sufficient amount of pesos for daily expenses like coffee, snacks, and bus fares is highly recommended.
• ATMs and Withdrawals: Be aware that ATMs can be unreliable, sometimes running out of cash, especially on weekends or holidays. They also tend to have low withdrawal limits and high fees. It’s best not to wait until you’re completely out of money to find one.
• Bring US Dollars: Having a reserve of US dollars (in good condition, without tears or markings) can be extremely useful. You can exchange them for pesos at official “casas de cambio” or use them as a backup.

Safety and Health

Bariloche is widely considered a safe destination for travelers, but like any popular tourist area, it’s important to remain aware of your surroundings. The natural environment also presents its own set of considerations.

• General Safety: The primary concerns are petty theft and pickpocketing in crowded areas like the city center or on public transport. Keep your valuables secure and out of sight, and avoid leaving belongings unattended.
• Driving Conditions: If you rent a car, be prepared for winding mountain roads. In winter, ice and snow can make conditions hazardous, so drive cautiously and check if your rental includes chains or winter tires.
• Drinking Water: The tap water in Bariloche is of high quality and perfectly safe to drink. Refilling a reusable bottle is an easy way to stay hydrated and reduce plastic waste.

Communication

Connecting with locals and staying in touch with home is straightforward in Bariloche, though it helps to know what to expect.

• Language: The official language is Spanish. While you will find English speakers in hotels, tour agencies, and many restaurants, staff in smaller shops and cafes may only speak Spanish. Learning a few basic phrases like “hola” (hello), “gracias” (thank you), and “¿cuánto cuesta?” (how much is it?) will be greatly appreciated and enhance your interactions.
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is commonly available in most accommodations and cafes, but the connection speed can be slower than what you might be used to, particularly outside the main city center. For more reliable internet access, especially if you need it for navigation or work, consider purchasing a local SIM card with a data plan upon arrival.