Getting around in Bolivia

Understanding Bolivia’s Transportation Landscape

Traveling through Bolivia is an adventure in itself, a journey defined as much by the dramatic landscapes as by the unique ways you traverse them. Before you plan your routes, it’s essential to grasp the fundamental realities of getting around. The country’s geography and culture shape a transportation network that is functional and extensive but requires patience, flexibility, and a bit of insider knowledge.

Key Challenges for Travelers

Navigating Bolivia comes with a unique set of challenges that are best met with preparation and a relaxed attitude. Understanding these from the outset will make your travels smoother and more enjoyable.

• The Impact of Altitude and Terrain: The Andes Mountains are the backbone of Bolivia, creating breathtaking scenery but also significant travel hurdles. Journeys that look short on a map often involve hours of climbing and descending winding mountain roads. A 300-kilometer trip can easily take eight hours or more. This slows everything down and can be taxing on the body, especially when ascending to higher altitudes.
• Varying Road Quality: While major inter-city routes are generally paved and well-maintained, venturing off the beaten path often means traveling on unpaved dirt or gravel roads. Road conditions can change dramatically with the seasons, with the rainy season (December to March) sometimes causing washouts and further delays.
• The Concept of “Bolivian Time”: Punctuality is a fluid concept. Buses may depart late waiting for more passengers, flights can be delayed by weather, and unexpected stops are common. The best approach is to embrace “Bolivian time” – build buffer days into your itinerary, never plan tight connections, and see any delay as an opportunity to observe local life.
• Navigating Roadblocks (bloqueos): Roadblocks, or bloqueos, are a common form of social protest where communities or unions block major highways to voice grievances. They can appear with little warning and last for hours or even days, completely halting traffic. While they are rarely targeted at tourists, they are a major disruptor. Staying flexible is the only way to manage them.

Major Transportation Hubs

Your Bolivian itinerary will likely revolve around a few key cities that serve as primary nodes for air and land travel. Familiarizing yourself with them will help you plan your connections effectively.

• La Paz / El Alto (LBP): As the seat of government and a major entry point for international visitors, La Paz is the country’s principal transport hub. El Alto International Airport (LBP), one of the highest in the world, serves domestic and international flights. The main bus terminal in La Paz is the chaotic but essential starting point for journeys across the Altiplano to Lake Titicaca, Oruro, and beyond.
• Santa Cruz de la Sierra (VVI): The economic engine of Bolivia, Santa Cruz is the hub for the tropical lowlands and the Amazon Basin. Its modern Viru Viru International Airport (VVI) is the country’s busiest, with excellent connections. The city’s Terminal Bimodal serves as both a bus and train station, connecting the eastern part of the country with the highlands and neighboring countries.
• Cochabamba: Situated in a temperate valley right in the country’s geographical heart, Cochabamba is a critical crossroads. Its bus terminal is one of the most organized in Bolivia and serves as the main interchange for routes connecting La Paz in the west, Santa Cruz in the east, and Sucre in the south.
• Sucre and Potosí: These two historic colonial cities are major destinations in their own right and serve as important regional bus hubs. Travel between them is frequent, and their terminals connect travelers to Uyuni, Tarija, and the central hubs of Cochabamba and La Paz.
• Uyuni: While a small and remote town, Uyuni is a vital transportation gateway for one reason: it is the starting point for all tours of the spectacular Salar de Uyuni. It has a small airport with flights to La Paz and a busy bus terminal with connections to La Paz, Sucre, Potosí, and Oruro.

By Bus: The Most Common Way to Travel

For most travelers and locals alike, the bus is the backbone of transportation in Bolivia. It’s an affordable, extensive, and deeply ingrained part of the travel experience, connecting sprawling cities with remote mountain villages. While journeys can be long and subject to the country’s unpredictable nature, traveling by bus offers a genuine glimpse into the rhythm of Bolivian life and the breathtaking scale of its landscapes.

Types of Buses and Service Classes

Not all buses are created equal, and choosing the right service class can make a significant difference, especially on long overnight routes. Bus companies typically offer several options, and you’ll find the best services on popular inter-city routes.

• Cama: The premium option, translating to “bed.” These seats recline almost fully (around 160-170 degrees), offering the most comfort for overnight travel. Cama buses often include a blanket, a small meal or snack, and a dedicated onboard toilet. They are the most expensive but well worth the investment for a good night’s sleep.
• Semi-Cama: The most common and popular choice for long-distance travel. Meaning “half-bed,” these seats recline partially (around 140 degrees), providing a reasonable level of comfort. They are a good balance between cost and comfort for journeys over a few hours.
• Normal / Clásico: This is the most basic service, with standard upright seats that offer minimal recline. These are typically used for shorter daytime routes or by budget bus companies. While economical, they are not recommended for overnight travel unless you have no other option.

How to Book and Buy Tickets

Securing your bus ticket is a straightforward process, with a couple of primary methods available to travelers.

At the Terminal Terrestre

The most traditional and common way to buy a ticket is directly at the city’s main bus station, or Terminal Terrestre. Each bus company has its own small booth (boletería) where you can inquire about schedules, prices, and purchase your ticket. This allows you to compare prices between companies and often choose your exact seat from a chart. It’s best to buy tickets at least a day in advance, especially for popular routes or during holiday periods.

Online Booking

In recent years, online booking has become a viable alternative. Platforms like TicketsBolivia aggregate routes from many different companies, allowing you to book from the comfort of your hotel. However, there are trade-offs to consider.

• Pros: The primary advantage is convenience. You can book in advance with a credit card, secure your seat on popular routes before they sell out, and avoid a trip to the often chaotic bus terminal. This is particularly useful if your Spanish is limited.
• Cons: Online prices are almost always higher than buying in person due to service fees. The selection of companies and routes may be limited compared to what is available at the terminal, and you have less flexibility to negotiate or compare last-minute deals.

Understanding the Uso de Terminal Fee

After purchasing your bus ticket, you are required to pay a small departure tax known as the uso de terminal (terminal use fee). This is a separate payment, typically just a few bolivianos, made at a designated kiosk inside the terminal before you proceed to the boarding gates. You will receive a small receipt or sticker that you must show to an official before boarding. Remember to keep a few coins handy for this, as it is almost always paid in cash.

Safety and Comfort on Bolivian Buses

A little preparation can go a long way in making your bus journey safer and more comfortable. Long trips across the Altiplano or winding down into the jungle require some forethought.

• Secure Your Belongings: Your large backpack or suitcase will be stored in the luggage compartment underneath the bus; you’ll get a claim ticket for it. However, always keep your daypack with all valuables—passport, money, electronics, and medication—with you at your seat. Do not place it in the overhead rack; it’s safest on your lap or by your feet.
• Pack Essentials: Onboard services can be basic. Always carry your own water, snacks, toilet paper, and hand sanitizer. While some premium buses have toilets, they are not always functional or clean, and buses make infrequent stops.
• Dress in Layers: Temperatures can fluctuate dramatically. A bus starting in the hot, humid lowlands can climb into the freezing Andes overnight. Onboard heating can be unreliable—either non-existent or blasting on full. Wear layers you can easily add or remove, and consider bringing a warm hat and a travel blanket or sleeping bag liner for overnight trips.
• Overnight Journeys: Overnight buses are an efficient way to cover vast distances without losing a day of sightseeing. Expect a bumpy ride on many routes. An eye mask, earplugs, and a neck pillow can be invaluable for getting some rest. The bus will likely make a few stops during the night, sometimes with all the lights coming on, so be prepared for interruptions.

By Air: The Quickest and Safest Option

While bus travel offers an immersive experience, flying is often the most practical and comfortable way to cover Bolivia’s vast distances. The country’s dramatic geography means a 20-hour bus journey can be replaced by a one-hour flight, saving you precious time and sparing you the rigors of winding mountain roads. For travelers on a tighter schedule or those looking to connect disparate regions like the Andes and the Amazon, domestic air travel is an invaluable option. If you’re wondering about the best times to travel, our guide to Weather and Climate in Bolivia can help you plan.

Main Domestic Airlines

The domestic aviation scene in Bolivia is relatively small, with a few key airlines handling the majority of routes. It’s always wise to check the most current information, as schedules and airline operations can change.

• Boliviana de Aviación (BoA): As the state-owned national airline, BoA has the most extensive network, connecting all major cities and many smaller regional airports. It is generally the most reliable choice for domestic travel.
• EcoJet: A private airline that serves as a primary competitor to BoA. EcoJet offers a good alternative on popular routes, sometimes with competitive pricing.
• Amaszonas: Formerly a significant player in domestic and regional travel, Amaszonas has experienced severe operational disruptions and flight suspensions in recent times. Travelers should exercise caution and verify the airline’s current status and flight availability directly before making any bookings.

When to Choose Flying Over a Bus

Deciding between a bus and a plane often comes down to a trade-off between time, cost, and comfort. Flying is the superior choice in several situations:

• Covering Long Distances: For routes like La Paz to Santa Cruz, Sucre to La Paz, or connecting the highlands to the Amazon basin, flying transforms a grueling 15-24 hour overland journey into a short, manageable flight.
• To Save Valuable Time: If your travel itinerary is compact, flying allows you to see more of the country without spending entire days in transit. It’s the most efficient way to hop between Bolivia’s distinct geographical zones.
• For Comfort and Safety: Air travel bypasses the challenges of poor road conditions, potential roadblocks, and the physical toll of long hours spent on a bus at high altitude. For many, the added comfort and perceived safety are well worth the extra cost.

Booking Flights and Airport Tips

Navigating Bolivia’s airports is generally straightforward, but a little preparation goes a long way. Keep these practical tips in mind for a smoother journey.

• Book in Advance: Especially during peak tourist seasons (June-August) and national holidays, flights on popular routes can fill up quickly. Booking a few weeks ahead can secure you a better price and a guaranteed seat.
• Anticipate Delays: Punctuality can be an issue. Delays and cancellations, particularly due to weather, are not uncommon. This is especially true for high-altitude airports like Uyuni or those in the Amazon where conditions can change rapidly. Build some buffer time into your itinerary.
• Arrive Early for Check-in: Airport processes can be slower than what you might be used to. It is advisable to arrive at the airport at least two hours before your domestic flight to allow ample time for check-in and security.

Getting Around in Cities and Towns

Once you’ve arrived in a Bolivian city, a whole new world of transportation opens up. From modern cable cars soaring above the urban sprawl to bustling shared vans, navigating Bolivia’s cities is an adventure in itself. Here’s how to master the local options. For a deeper understanding of what to expect, check out our Key Facts of Bolivia.

Taxis and Ride-Sharing

For direct, private transport, taxis are widely available. However, not all taxis are created equal, and knowing the difference is key to a safe and fair journey.

• Radio Taxis: This is by far the safest and most reliable option. These are official vehicles registered with a company, identifiable by a plastic dome sign on the roof displaying the company’s name and phone number. You can book them by phone or have your hotel or restaurant call one for you. Fares are generally fair and more regulated than street taxis.
• Street Taxis: These are independent taxis you can hail on the street. While convenient, they carry more risk. It is absolutely essential to agree on the fare to your destination before you get inside the car, as they do not use meters. Having an idea of the correct fare from a local can prevent you from being overcharged.
• Ride-Sharing Apps: In major cities like La Paz, Santa Cruz, and Cochabamba, apps like Uber, Yango, and InDriver are operational. Availability can be inconsistent, and drivers may sometimes prefer cash payments. They do, however, offer the benefit of a pre-determined price and a digital record of your journey.

Micros, Minibuses, and Trufis

The backbone of public transport for most Bolivians is a seemingly chaotic but functional system of shared vehicles. It’s incredibly cheap and an authentic way to experience daily life. The system works on fixed routes, but there are rarely official bus stops; you simply hail one from the sidewalk and signal to the driver when you want to get off.

You can identify a vehicle’s route by the large placards placed in the windshield, which list key streets and neighborhoods. It can be confusing at first, so don’t hesitate to ask a local for help or simply state your destination to the driver or their assistant (voceador) before hopping on. To get off, a clear shout of “¡Bajo!” (I’m getting off!), “¡En la esquina!” (At the corner!), or “¡Me quedo!” (I’ll stay here!) will signal the driver to pull over. You typically pay the driver a small, fixed fare in cash as you get on or just before you get off.

It’s helpful to understand the main types of vehicles:

• A micro is a larger, often older and colorfully decorated city bus that can hold 20-30 passengers. They are the slowest and cheapest option.
• A minibus is a smaller van, usually a Toyota Coaster, that is faster and slightly more expensive than a micro.
• A trufi (from “taxi de ruta fija” or fixed-route taxi) is a shared sedan or small van that operates like a bus along a specific route, offering a quicker and slightly more comfortable ride.

Mi Teleférico: The La Paz Cable Car System

In the dizzying heights of La Paz, the most remarkable form of public transport is Mi Teleférico. This Austrian-built network of cable cars is one of the longest and highest in the world, serving as a vital link between La Paz and the sprawling city of El Alto above it. It is clean, efficient, safe, and surprisingly affordable. For fantastic views of this system, consider our guide to Bolivia for photographers.

For travelers, Mi Teleférico is more than just a commute; it’s a must-do sightseeing experience. The smooth, quiet glide above the city offers breathtaking, cinematic views of the urban landscape clinging to the canyon walls, with the majestic Illimani mountain as a backdrop. It provides a unique perspective on the city’s complex geography that is impossible to appreciate from the ground.

To make the most of it for tourism, consider these key lines:

• Línea Roja (Red Line): One of the original lines, it connects to the massive El Alto market on Thursdays and Sundays and offers classic panoramic views.
• Línea Plateada (Silver Line): This line runs along the rim of the canyon in El Alto, connecting several other lines and offering stunning, continuous vistas.
• Línea Verde (Green Line): Travels to the lower, more affluent neighborhoods of the Zona Sur, showing a completely different side of La Paz.

Specialized and Regional Transport Options

Beyond the national network of buses and flights, Bolivia offers unique modes of transport essential for accessing some of its most spectacular and remote regions. From rugged 4x4s on the salt flats to scenic train journeys and riverboats in the Amazon, these options are often an integral part of the adventure itself.

4×4 Jeeps for Salar de Uyuni

To explore the otherworldly landscapes of the Salar de Uyuni and the surrounding Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve, a 4×4 vehicle is not just an option—it is a necessity. The vast, unmarked expanses of the salt flat and the rugged tracks through the high-altitude desert are impassable for any other type of vehicle. Nearly all travelers experience this region as part of a multi-day organized tour, typically departing from Uyuni, Tupiza, or San Pedro de Atacama (in Chile).

Choosing a reputable tour company is the single most important decision for this part of your trip, as your safety and enjoyment depend heavily on the quality of the driver and vehicle. Looking for a photography destination? The Salar de Uyuni is an unparalleled experience for Bolivia for photographers. When selecting an operator, consider the following:

• Safety Record: Ask about the company’s safety protocols. Reputable agencies prioritize well-maintained vehicles, carry first-aid kits and emergency oxygen, and ensure their drivers are experienced and do not drive under the influence.
• Driver and Guide: Your driver is also your guide and cook. Look for companies known for professional, knowledgeable, and responsible drivers. Reading recent reviews can provide valuable insight.
• Itinerary and Group Size: Confirm the exact itinerary and what is included. Most tours accommodate up to six passengers per vehicle. A smaller group can sometimes offer a more comfortable experience.
• Vehicle Condition: While you may not be able to inspect the specific vehicle beforehand, established companies generally maintain their fleets better.

A typical three-day tour involves long hours in the Jeep, traversing bumpy terrain with five or six other travelers. The experience is intimate and communal. You’ll cross the blindingly white salt flat, visit high-altitude lagoons stained red and green by minerals, marvel at geysers and hot springs, and stay in very basic salt hotels or simple refuges with shared facilities. The journey is as breathtaking as the destinations, offering a profound sense of isolation and natural wonder.

Trains: Scenic but Limited

Bolivia’s train network is not extensive, but the routes it does cover offer a comfortable and wonderfully scenic alternative to bus travel. The system is split into two unconnected networks: Ferroviaria Andina in the western Altiplano and Ferroviaria Oriental in the eastern lowlands near Brazil.

For travelers, the most useful and popular route is operated by Ferroviaria Andina, connecting Oruro, Uyuni, Tupiza, and Villazón on the Argentine border. This journey across the starkly beautiful high plains is a fantastic way to travel to or from the salt flats. The main services are:

• Expreso del Sur: Generally considered the more comfortable option, with a dining car offering meals and drinks, reclining seats, and heating (essential for cold Altiplano nights).
• Wara Wara del Sur: A slightly more economical service that runs on different days. It also has a dining car and is a reliable option, though perhaps with fewer amenities than the Expreso.

Traveling by train is significantly more relaxed than by bus. You have more space, the ability to walk around, and large windows perfect for watching the dramatic landscapes unfold. Tickets can be booked in advance at train station offices or online, which is recommended, especially during high season.

Boats and Ferries

In a country of such diverse geography, water travel is essential in certain areas, particularly on Lake Titicaca and deep within the Amazon Basin.

On Lake Titicaca, small, simple motorboats are the standard way to travel between the lakeside town of Copacabana and the sacred Isla del Sol. These boats run on a regular schedule, taking passengers to the southern (Yumani) and northern (Challapampa) parts of the island. The crossing itself offers beautiful views of the immense, deep-blue lake set against the backdrop of the Andes.

In the Amazon Basin, particularly for tours out of Rurrenabaque into the Madidi National Park and Pampas del Yacuma, motorized canoes are the primary mode of transport. These long, slender boats, sometimes called `peque-peques`, navigate the Beni and Tuichi rivers, offering an incredible platform for spotting wildlife like capybaras, monkeys, caimans, and a huge variety of birds along the riverbanks.

For the truly adventurous traveler with ample time and flexibility, it’s possible to journey on cargo boats along major rivers like the Beni. This is slow, rugged travel, where you sleep in a hammock on a crowded deck. It offers a unique glimpse into local life but requires significant patience and a willingness to forego all creature comforts.

Essential Practical Advice

Be Prepared for Roadblocks (Bloqueos)

One of the most unique aspects of travel in Bolivia is the potential for bloqueos, or roadblocks. These are a common form of social protest where groups block major roads to draw attention to political or social issues. They can be unpredictable, ranging from a few hours to several days, and can significantly impact travel plans.

• Stay Informed: The best way to manage bloqueos is to be aware of them. Ask your hotel staff or local contacts about the current situation before starting a long journey. Local news websites and traveler forums on social media can also provide up-to-the-minute information.
• Build in Flexibility: Do not schedule tight connections, especially after a long bus ride. Treat your itinerary as a suggestion rather than a strict plan. A roadblock is a perfect example of “Bolivian time” in action; patience is not just a virtue, but a necessity.
• Have a Backup Plan: If a roadblock occurs, your options are usually to wait it out or find an alternative route, which may be non-existent or much longer. Sometimes, travelers can walk across the blockade and find transport on the other side, but this depends entirely on the situation.

Health and Altitude

Traveling in Bolivia, particularly through the Andes, can be physically demanding. The combination of high altitude and long, winding roads requires some preparation to stay comfortable and healthy. For guidance on what to expect, check our vaccination & health requirements.

• Acclimatize Slowly: When traveling from the lowlands to the Altiplano (e.g., Santa Cruz to La Paz), you are ascending rapidly. A bus journey does not give your body much time to adjust. Take it very easy for the first 24 hours upon arrival at a high-altitude destination.
• Stay Hydrated: The dry air at high altitudes can lead to dehydration. Drink plenty of water, and consider trying coca tea (mate de coca), a local remedy used to alleviate altitude sickness symptoms.
• Prevent Motion Sickness: The mountain roads are incredibly scenic but also notoriously winding. If you are prone to motion sickness, take medication before you board a bus. Try to get a seat near the front where the ride is slightly smoother.

Money and Payments

While major tour companies and airlines accept credit cards, day-to-day transportation in Bolivia operates almost entirely on cash. Being prepared with the right currency and denominations will make your journeys much smoother. For more on this and other practicalities, explore our key facts about Bolivia.

• Carry Small Bills and Coins: This is perhaps the most important tip. Always have a good supply of small bills (10 and 20 Bolivianos) and coins. Taxi drivers, minibus conductors, and small vendors often cannot make change for a 100 or 200 Boliviano note. Breaking a large bill at a bank or supermarket is a good habit to get into.
• Cash is King: Expect to pay for all local transport—taxis, micros, trufis—in cash. You will also need cash to buy your bus ticket at the terminal and to pay the small uso de terminal (terminal use fee).
• Budget Accordingly: Factor these small cash payments into your daily budget. While individual fares are low, they add up. Having a separate stash of small bills ready for transport will save you the constant hassle of trying to find change.