Getting around in Bolivia

Understanding Bolivian Transport: An Adventurer’s Guide

The Lay of the Land

To understand travel in Bolivia is to first understand its dramatic and demanding geography. The country is a land of extremes, carved by the towering Andes mountains, the vast high-altitude Altiplano, and the dense, humid Amazon basin. This topography dictates every journey. A route that appears short on a map can involve a winding, day-long ascent over a 4,000-meter pass followed by a dizzying descent into a tropical valley. Infrastructure varies immensely; while major cities are connected by paved highways, many rural and adventurous routes are little more than rugged dirt tracks. Travel in Bolivia is rarely just about getting from point A to point B. It is an integral part of the experience itself—an exercise in patience, an opportunity for unexpected social encounters, and a front-row seat to some of the most breathtaking landscapes on the continent. Embracing the journey, with all its potential delays and detours, is the first step to truly appreciating what this country has to offer. For a deeper understanding of what to expect, check out our reasons to visit Bolivia.

Long-Distance Travel: Crossing the Country

Moving between Bolivia’s distinct regions requires choosing between ground or air travel, each with its own set of trade-offs in terms of time, cost, comfort, and experience. Here’s a breakdown of your main options for traversing this expansive nation.

By Bus (Flota)

Buses, known locally as flotas, are the lifeblood of Bolivian long-distance travel. They are by far the most common and affordable way to get around, connecting major cities and remote towns alike. The experience can range from surprisingly comfortable to a true test of endurance.

• Classes of Service Explained: Not all buses are created equal. Understanding the terminology is key to a comfortable journey.
  • Cama: The premium option, offering seats that recline nearly flat into a bed. Ideal for overnight journeys, they provide the best chance for a good night’s sleep.
  • Semi-cama: A significant step up from standard, with seats that recline generously (usually to around 140-160 degrees). This is the most popular choice for a balance of comfort and cost.
  • Normal: A basic, upright seat with minimal recline. Suitable for shorter daytime trips but not recommended for long overnight hauls.
• Booking Your Ticket: You have a few options for securing a seat.
  • At the bus terminal (terminal terrestre): The most common method. Arrive at the terminal, where dozens of companies have their own ticket windows. This allows you to compare prices and departure times directly.
  • Online platforms: Websites like Tickets Bolivia allow you to book in advance, which is useful for popular routes or if you have a tight schedule.
  • Through hostels or travel agencies: Many tourist accommodations can book bus tickets for you for a small commission, saving you a trip to the terminal.
• What to Expect on the Journey: Overnight buses save you a day of travel and the cost of a night’s accommodation. However, be prepared for cold temperatures at high altitudes; even with heating, a warm jacket is essential. Onboard toilets are common on cama/semi-cama services but are not always functional. Expect loud movies, frequent stops in small towns, and a schedule that is more of a suggestion than a guarantee. Consider the weather and climate in Bolivia when planning your journeys.

By Air

For those short on time or wishing to avoid long, winding road journeys, flying is a practical and increasingly popular alternative. It drastically cuts travel time, turning a 16-hour bus ride into a 1-hour flight.

• Main Domestic Airlines: The domestic market is primarily served by two carriers.
  • Boliviana de Aviación (BoA): The state-owned flag carrier with the most extensive network of domestic routes.
  • Amaszonas: A private airline that also serves a number of key destinations across the country.
• Key Airport Hubs: The main gateways for air travel are located in the country’s largest cities.
  • La Paz (El Alto International Airport – LPB)
  • Santa Cruz (Viru Viru International Airport – VVI)
  • Cochabamba (Jorge Wilstermann International Airport – CBB)
  • Sucre (Alcantarí International Airport – SRE)
• Pros and Cons: The primary advantage of flying is the immense time saved. It allows you to bypass difficult road conditions, particularly during the rainy season when landslides can cause severe delays. The main disadvantages are the significantly higher cost compared to buses and the propensity for delays or cancellations due to weather, especially at high-altitude airports like La Paz.

By Train

Bolivia’s train network is limited, but the routes that do exist offer a wonderfully scenic and relaxed way to travel, harking back to an earlier era of transportation. It’s a choice for the journey itself, not for speed.

• Expreso Oriental (The “Death Train”): This famous route connects Santa Cruz in the eastern lowlands with Quijarro on the Brazilian border. The dramatic nickname is a relic of a past cholera epidemic, not a reflection of modern safety. The journey is a slow, rhythmic ride through the Chiquitano dry forests and Pantanal wetlands, offering a social atmosphere where you can watch the unique landscape unfold.
• Wara Wara del Sur & Expreso del Sur: These services run on the Altiplano route, connecting Oruro with Uyuni, Tupiza, and Villazón on the Argentinian border. This is a very popular and comfortable way for travelers to reach the Salar de Uyuni from the north, offering a smooth alternative to the sometimes-bumpy bus ride.

Getting Around Cities and Towns

Once you’ve arrived in a Bolivian city, a new adventure in transportation begins. Urban transit is a vibrant, chaotic, and often surprisingly efficient system that offers a genuine glimpse into daily life. From modern cable cars soaring above La Paz to crowded minibuses navigating cobblestone streets, moving around town is an experience in itself.

Taxis and Ride-Sharing

For direct, point-to-point travel, taxis are readily available in all cities and towns. However, not all taxis are created equal, and knowing the difference is key to a smooth and safe journey.

Types of Taxis

• Radio Taxis: These are the most reliable and secure option. They belong to a registered company, often have a logo and phone number on the roof, and are dispatched by phone. Your hotel or restaurant can call one for you. While slightly more expensive, the peace of mind they offer is well worth the small premium.
• Street Taxis: These are independent taxis you can hail on the street. They do not use a meter, so it is absolutely essential to agree on a fare with the driver before you get in. They are a perfectly viable option for short trips during the day, provided you know the general cost and can negotiate confidently.

Ride-Sharing Apps

Ride-sharing is slowly gaining a foothold in Bolivia’s largest urban centers. Apps like Uber and Yango operate in cities such as La Paz, Santa Cruz, and Cochabamba. Availability can be inconsistent, especially outside of central districts, but they offer the convenience of a set price and a registered driver, removing the need for negotiation.

Safety and Fare Negotiation

Whether you’re taking a street taxi or a radio taxi, a few simple rules will ensure a positive experience:

• Always ask for the price (“¿Cuánto hasta…?”) before you commit to the ride. If the price sounds too high, you can politely decline and wait for another taxi.
• Try to have small bills and coins for payment. Drivers often don’t have change for larger notes, and paying with exact or near-exact money avoids complications.
• If possible, sit in the back seat and keep an eye on your belongings. Avoid placing bags or valuables on the seat next to you by an open window.

Micros, Minibuses, and Trufis

To truly travel like a local, you must embrace the organized chaos of Bolivia’s public transport. Diving into the world of micros, minibuses, and trufis is not just a way to get from A to B for a few bolivianos; it’s a quintessential Bolivian cultural experience. At first, the system may seem impenetrable, but with a little observation and confidence, you’ll be navigating the city like a pro.

Micros (Buses)

These are the large, often colorfully decorated city buses. They follow set routes, which are not marked on maps but are displayed on a placard in the front window. This sign lists the main avenues, markets, and landmarks along its path. To ride one:

• Hailing a Micro: Simply find a spot on the sidewalk along its route and flag it down with your hand.
• Reading the Sign: Scan the list of locations in the window for your destination or a major street near it. Don’t be afraid to ask the driver or a fellow passenger if it goes where you need to go (“¿Va por…?”)
• Paying and Stopping: Hop on and pay the fare directly to the driver—it’s a small, fixed amount. When you are nearing your destination, make your way to the exit and call out, “¡Bajo!” (I’m getting off!), “¡En la esquina!” (At the corner!), or press a stop button if one is available.

Trufis (Shared Taxis/Vans)

Trufis are shared taxis or minivans that operate on fixed routes, much like micros, but are generally faster as they make fewer stops. They are a popular middle ground between a private taxi and a bus. You can identify them by the route sign on their roof or dashboard. To use one, you simply stand on the correct side of the road and hail it like a taxi. You pay the driver upon entry or exit and tell them where you’d like to get off just as you would on a micro.

Mi Teleférico: La Paz’s Cable Car System

Soaring high above the urban sprawl of La Paz is one of the world’s most impressive public transport systems: Mi Teleférico. What began as a solution to the city’s crippling traffic has become a must-do attraction for visitors, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the city nestled in its canyon and the snow-capped Andes beyond. Exploring the city via the cable car is one of the best things to do in Bolivia.

Navigating the Network

The system is a network of interconnected lines, each identified by a different color, similar to a subway map. It is the primary link between the city center of La Paz and the sprawling, high-altitude city of El Alto, which sits on the rim of the canyon. The lines seamlessly connect, allowing you to transfer from one to another to cross vast sections of the city in minutes.

How to Use It

Using the system is simple and efficient. You can purchase a single-trip ticket at the counter in any station or buy a rechargeable transit card if you plan to use it frequently. The stations are clean, modern, and well-staffed. Once you have your ticket, you simply scan it at the turnstile and board the next available cabin. The journey is smooth and quiet, providing a peaceful and spectacular perspective on the city’s unique geography.

Unique and Regional Transportation

Bolivia’s diverse geography demands equally diverse modes of transport. In many regions, conventional buses and taxis simply can’t navigate the terrain. Here, the journey becomes an integral part of the adventure, utilizing vehicles uniquely suited to the environment.

4×4 Jeeps in the Altiplano

When you venture into the otherworldly landscapes of the Salar de Uyuni and the surrounding high-altitude deserts of the southwest, the 4×4 jeep is not just an option—it is the only option. These rugged vehicles are the lifeblood of tourism in the region, capable of handling vast salt flats, sandy tracks, and rocky mountain passes.

A multi-day tour is a shared experience, typically with 4 to 6 travelers per vehicle. Expect long days of driving across breathtaking, remote scenery, with stops at colorful lagoons, geysers, and surreal rock formations. Accommodations are often in basic “refugios” or salt hotels, with shared facilities that are part of the rustic charm. Your driver is far more than just a chauffeur; they are your guide, mechanic, and often your cook. Their knowledge of the unmarked routes and ability to perform on-the-spot repairs are essential skills that make these incredible journeys possible.

River Boats in the Amazon Basin

In the vast, roadless expanses of the Bolivian Amazon, particularly in the departments of Beni and Pando, rivers are the highways. Life moves at the pace of the current, and boats are the primary means of transporting people and goods between remote communities and larger towns.

Cargo Boats vs. Tourist Boats

For the truly adventurous traveler with time to spare, a journey on a multi-level cargo boat offers an authentic glimpse into local life. You’ll rent space to hang your own hammock, share simple meals with the crew and other passengers, and watch the jungle scenery drift by over several days. It is slow, basic, and completely immersive. In contrast, tourist-focused boats, often used for pampas or jungle tours out of towns like Rurrenabaque, are faster and more comfortable. These are typically smaller motorboats designed for wildlife spotting and getting you to eco-lodges efficiently.

Popular Routes

While many routes are informal, some established journeys exist for travelers. The trip from the Yungas region downriver to Rurrenabaque is a classic, though less common now than it once was. More frequently, travelers will experience river travel on tours departing from Trinidad to explore the vast river systems and spot pink river dolphins, or on multi-day excursions into Madidi National Park.

Mototaxis

In the hot and humid lowland towns of the Amazon basin, like Rurrenabaque, Riberalta, or Trinidad, the mototaxi is king. This hybrid of a motorcycle and a rickshaw is the most common form of local transport. They are perfect for zipping through town on short errands, getting from the bus station to your hostel, or simply enjoying a breezy ride. Fares are cheap and fixed for trips within the town’s central area, making them a convenient and ubiquitous part of the urban landscape in Bolivia’s tropics.

Essential Tips for Travelers

Safety and Security

While Bolivia is a generally welcoming country, navigating its transport systems requires a degree of common sense and awareness. Crowded spaces like bus terminals and bustling city micros are prime locations for petty theft. Keeping your wits about you will ensure your journey is memorable for the right reasons.

• Guard Your Belongings: In busy terminals and on packed public transport, keep your valuables secure and out of sight. A common tactic is for one person to distract you while another takes your bag. It’s wise to keep your main backpack in front of you or between your feet, and a smaller daypack with essentials on your lap.
• Choose Reputable Bus Companies: For long overnight journeys, it pays to spend a little extra for a more reputable company. They often have better safety records, more professional drivers, and more comfortable buses. Ask for recommendations at your hostel or from fellow travelers.
• Avoid Unofficial Taxis: Always opt for official “Radio Taxis,” which you can call or have your hotel/restaurant call for you. These vehicles are registered and tracked, making them a much safer option than hailing an unmarked car on the street, especially at night. If you must hail a taxi, agree on the fare before you get in.

Navigating Delays and Roadblocks (Bloqueos)

The single most important trait for a traveler in Bolivia is flexibility. Schedules are often seen as suggestions rather than strict timetables, a concept fondly referred to as “Bolivian time.” Beyond simple delays, a unique aspect of Bolivian life is the bloqueo, or roadblock, which can bring travel to a standstill for hours or even days. Embracing patience is not just a suggestion; it’s a survival strategy.

• Understand “Bolivian Time”: Buses may leave late, arrive late, or make unscheduled stops. Don’t plan tight connections. Instead, build buffer time into your itinerary and consider travel days as part of the adventure itself.
• What are Bloqueos?: Roadblocks are a common form of social and political protest in Bolivia. They can be set up by anyone from miners to coca farmers to community groups to voice grievances. While rarely targeted at tourists, they will halt all traffic on a major route until a resolution is reached.
• Stay Informed and Have a Plan B: Before a long journey, ask locals or check local news sources about potential roadblocks. If you get stuck in one, stay calm. Sometimes, short detours open up, or you may have to wait it out. Always travel with extra water, snacks, and a good book, just in case your four-hour trip turns into a twelve-hour one.

Health and Comfort on the Go

Traveling long distances in Bolivia can be physically demanding, with winding mountain roads, dramatic altitude shifts, and basic amenities. A little preparation can make a significant difference in your comfort and well-being, turning a challenging ride into an enjoyable experience.

• Pack a Journey Kit: For any long bus ride, especially overnight, pack a small bag with essentials. This should include plenty of drinking water, high-energy snacks, your own toilet paper (a rarity on buses and in many public restrooms), and warm layers. Andean nights are freezing, and bus heating can be unreliable or non-existent. A blanket or sleeping bag can be a lifesaver.
• Manage Motion and Altitude Sickness: The roads through the Andes are notoriously winding. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take medication before you depart. The rapid ascents and descents can also trigger altitude sickness. Many locals chew coca leaves (hojas de coca) to alleviate symptoms, which you can try, or consult your doctor about altitude sickness medication before your trip.
• Stay Hydrated: The dry, high-altitude air of the Altiplano can dehydrate you much faster than you realize. Make it a priority to drink more water than you think you need, especially on travel days. This not only helps with general health but is also one of the best ways to prevent and mitigate the effects of altitude sickness.