Getting around in Costa Rica

Rental Cars: The Ultimate Freedom

Is a 4×4 Necessary?

• As a general rule, a 4×4 vehicle is highly recommended for navigating Costa Rica. It provides peace of mind and access to more remote and adventurous locations, particularly outside the primary tourist corridors.
• For certain destinations, a 4×4 is not just a recommendation but a necessity. These include areas with rugged terrain and unpaved roads like Monteverde, the Osa Peninsula, and the roads around Nosara, especially during the rainy season (May-November).
• If your itinerary is limited to travel between San José, La Fortuna/Arenal, Manuel Antonio, and Jacó using the main paved highways, a standard sedan is typically sufficient.

Please be aware that the term “SUV” does not automatically mean the vehicle has four-wheel drive. It is crucial to confirm with the rental agency that you are booking a true 4×4 (often designated as 4WD) if your itinerary requires it.

Navigating Costa Rican Roads

• Navigation Apps: Waze is the undisputed champion of navigation in Costa Rica, offering real-time updates on traffic, road closures, and police presence. Google Maps serves as a reliable backup. We recommend downloading offline maps for areas where cell service may be spotty.
• Road Conditions: Be prepared for a variety of conditions. Even on major routes, you may encounter significant potholes (“huecos”), unpaved gravel sections, very narrow single-lane bridges where you must yield to oncoming traffic, and occasional small river crossings in rural areas.
• Signage: Road signs can be inconsistent, and in rural areas, they may be entirely absent. Relying on a GPS app is far more effective than trying to navigate by signs alone.
• Driving at Night: We strongly advise against driving after dark. Roads are often poorly lit, hazards like potholes or landslides are difficult to see, and it is common for pedestrians, cyclists, and animals to be on the road with little to no reflective gear.

Mandatory Insurance Explained

Automobile insurance in Costa Rica is a frequent point of confusion for travelers. The policies are government-regulated, and the costs are often not included in the initial online rental quotes. Please review the following carefully.

• Third-Party Liability (TPL/SLI): This insurance is mandatory by Costa Rican law and is sold by the car rental company. It covers injury or damage to third parties. This insurance cannot be declined, and it is not covered by your personal car insurance from your home country or by any credit card insurance benefits.
• Collision Damage Waiver (CDW): This covers damage to the rental vehicle itself. It is often presented as optional. Some premium credit cards offer CDW coverage, but to use it, you must decline the rental agency’s CDW. This will require you to provide a letter of proof of coverage from your credit card issuer and to place a substantial security deposit (often several thousand dollars) on your card.

It is essential to budget for the mandatory insurance, as it can significantly increase the total cost of your rental compared to the initial price you see online.

Gas Stations and Fuel

• Gas stations are locally known as “Gasolineras” or “Bombas”.
• All gas stations in Costa Rica are full-service. An attendant will approach your vehicle to ask what type of fuel you need and how much. You do not need to get out of your car.
• Most stations accept major credit cards, but it is always a good practice to carry some local currency (Colones) for payment, especially in more rural locations.

In remote regions, such as the Osa Peninsula or parts of the Nicoya Peninsula, gas stations can be few and far between. We advise you to fill up your tank whenever you have the opportunity, even if it is not yet empty.

Shuttles: Convenient and Stress-Free

Private vs. Shared Shuttles

Private Shuttles

• Offers door-to-door service, picking you up and dropping you off at your precise locations on a schedule that you determine.
• Provides the flexibility to make stops along the way for photos, restroom breaks, or a meal at your leisure.
• This is an ideal choice for families with children, larger groups, or travelers with a specific and fixed itinerary.

Shared Shuttles

• A more budget-friendly option for traveling between popular tourist destinations.
• These shuttles operate on a fixed schedule with predetermined routes and times.
• Service is generally limited to pick-ups and drop-offs at major hotels and designated locations, not private residences.
• Expect longer travel times as the shuttle will make multiple stops to collect and drop off other passengers.

What to Expect

• Booking: All shuttle services, whether private or shared, must be booked in advance. They cannot be hailed on the street.
• Vehicles: The fleet typically consists of modern, air-conditioned vans or mini-buses that are comfortable and well-maintained.
• Luggage: The standard allowance is usually one large checked bag and one personal carry-on item per passenger. If you are traveling with oversized items like surfboards or multiple large bags, you must check the specific company’s policy and declare these items when booking to ensure space is available.

Domestic Flights: Maximize Your Time

Key Airlines and Routes

• The main domestic carriers are Sansa Airlines and Green Airways, both operating fleets of small propeller aircraft.
• Flights primarily depart from hubs at Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) near San José and Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport (LIR) in Liberia.
• Popular routes connect the central hubs to remote destinations, including SJO to Tortuguero, Puerto Jiménez (for the Osa Peninsula), Drake Bay, Tambor (for the Nicoya Peninsula), and Quepos (for Manuel Antonio).

The primary benefit of flying domestically is time. A journey that could take 6-8 hours by road can often be completed in a 45-minute flight, allowing you to spend more of your vacation enjoying your destination rather than in transit.

Important Luggage Restrictions

• Luggage weight limits on these small aircraft are strictly enforced and are significantly lower than those for international flights.
• The typical checked baggage allowance is between 25 and 40 lbs (approximately 12 to 18 kg) per person. Be sure to check the specific allowance for your airline.
• Fees for excess baggage can be quite high, and there is no guarantee that overweight or extra bags will travel on the same flight as you. They may be sent on a later flight with available space.

If your itinerary includes a domestic flight, we strongly advise you to pack light to avoid complications and unexpected costs at the airport.

Public Buses: The Local Experience

Pros and Cons

For the adventurous, flexible, and budget-conscious traveler, the public bus system offers an authentic glimpse into daily Costa Rican life. It is not, however, recommended for those on a tight schedule or seeking comfort and convenience.

• Pros: This is by far the most affordable way to travel the country. It also provides a genuine cultural experience, allowing you to travel alongside local residents.
• Cons: Buses can be slow, making frequent stops. They are often crowded, especially on popular routes, and schedules can be confusing to navigate. Luggage space is typically limited to a compartment under the bus, and on-board storage is minimal.

How to Use the Bus System

• The system is largely centralized, with most long-distance routes originating from different terminals in the capital, San José.
• Look for “directo” routes, which are more express with fewer stops, as opposed to “colectivo” routes, which stop in nearly every town along the way.
• Tickets are most commonly purchased in person at the bus station, often just before departure. Cash is usually required.

Taxis and Ride-Sharing

Official Taxis vs. Unofficial Taxis

• Official Taxis: These are easily identifiable. In most of the country, they are red with a yellow triangle on the side door. At the airports, they are orange. Official taxis are required by law to use a meter, known locally as “la maría”. Always insist that the driver uses it.
• Unofficial Taxis (“Piratas”): These are private, unmarked cars offering taxi services. We advise against using them, as they are unregulated, may not have proper insurance, and often overcharge tourists.
• Airport Taxis: Upon exiting the terminal, use the official, authorized orange taxis. Do not accept rides from solicitors inside the terminal.

Uber and Didi

• Availability: Ride-sharing services like Uber and Didi operate primarily in San José and the surrounding Central Valley. Their presence is very limited or completely non-existent in most rural and beach towns.
• Legality: The services operate in a legal gray area in Costa Rica but are widely used by both locals and tourists in urban centers.

We suggest using these apps for convenient, short trips within San José. For long-distance travel between cities, pre-booked private or shared shuttles are a more reliable and appropriate choice.

Boats and Ferries: Connecting Coastal Areas

Major Ferry Routes

• Nicoya Peninsula: The primary car ferry routes connect the mainland to the southern Nicoya Peninsula. The most popular is from Puntarenas to Paquera, which serves as the