Havana Travel Guide

Planning Your Trip: Before You Go

Understanding Entry Requirements

Navigating the entry process for Cuba is straightforward, but requires careful preparation. Most visitors will not need a formal visa but instead a document called a Tourist Card (Tarjeta del Turista). This is typically valid for a 90-day stay and can often be purchased through your airline or a specialized travel agency before departure. A small number of nationalities are visa-exempt, so it is always wise to check the latest requirements with your local Cuban embassy.

Upon arrival, you will also need to present:

• Proof of onward travel, such as a return flight ticket.
• Confirmation of your first night’s accommodation.
• Proof of mandatory travel insurance. It is a legal requirement for all foreign visitors to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses for the duration of their stay. You may be asked to show documentation at immigration, so keep a printed or digital copy accessible.

Best Time to Visit Havana

Havana’s tropical climate creates two distinct seasons, each offering a different experience. The choice of when to visit depends on your tolerance for heat and your budget.

The Dry Season (November to April) is widely considered the ideal time to travel. You can expect pleasant, sunny days with lower humidity and comfortable temperatures, perfect for exploring the city on foot. This is also peak tourist season, which means higher prices for flights and accommodation, and more crowded sights.

The Wet Season (May to October) brings hotter temperatures, higher humidity, and afternoon rain showers. While the rain is often intense but brief, this period also coincides with the Atlantic hurricane season (peaking August-October). The trade-off is fewer tourists and lower prices, offering a more tranquil experience.

Consider timing your visit with one of Havana’s renowned cultural events. The Havana Jazz Festival in January attracts world-class musicians, while the prestigious International Ballet Festival of Havana, held every two years in the autumn, showcases incredible talent.

Money Matters: Currency and Budgeting

The official and only currency in Cuba is the Cuban Peso (CUP). You may still see outdated information online about a dual-currency system involving the Convertible Peso (CUC), but this was officially phased out in 2021. All transactions are now conducted in CUP.

Cuba is primarily a cash-based economy. While some large, state-run hotels and shops may accept credit or debit cards, acceptance is extremely limited. Crucially, cards issued by U.S. banks will not work anywhere in Cuba. It is essential to bring enough cash for your entire trip. Euros are often preferred and can sometimes yield a better exchange rate, but US Dollars are also widely accepted, particularly in the private sector (taxis, paladares, casas particulares).

Here are some general daily budget estimates per person, excluding accommodation:

• Budget: $30-$50 USD. This covers street food, travel in colectivos, and modest entry fees.
• Mid-Range: $60-$100 USD. This allows for meals at private restaurants (paladares), classic car rides, and museum visits.
• Luxury: $150+ USD. This accommodates fine dining, private guided tours, and cocktails at historic hotels.

What to Pack for Cuba

Packing for Havana involves preparing for sun, heat, and a different level of infrastructure. Focus on practical and comfortable items. For more detailed advice on what to bring, check out our comprehensive guide on what to pack for Cuba.

• Lightweight Clothing: Breathable fabrics like cotton and linen are ideal. Pack shorts, t-shirts, sundresses, and at least one light jacket or sweater for cooler, air-conditioned interiors or evenings by the sea.
• Comfortable Shoes: You will be doing a lot of walking on uneven cobblestone streets. Sturdy sandals or walking shoes are essential.
• Sun Protection: The Caribbean sun is strong. A wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen are non-negotiable.
• Medications and First-Aid: Bring any personal medications you need, as well as a basic kit with pain relievers, antiseptic wipes, and stomach remedies. Pharmacies are not always well-stocked with familiar items.
• Offline Resources: With limited and slow Wi-Fi, having an offline map app (like Maps.me) and a Spanish translation app downloaded on your phone is invaluable.
• Gifts for Locals: While not required, bringing small, practical gifts like toiletries, pens, guitar strings, or children’s toys is a deeply appreciated gesture for your casa particular hosts or people you connect with.

Arrival and Getting Around Havana

Flying into José Martí International Airport (HAV)

Your Havana adventure begins at José Martí International Airport, located about 15 kilometers southwest of the city center. The arrival process can be slower than you might be used to, so patience is key. After disembarking, you will proceed to immigration, where officials will check your passport, tourist card, and proof of travel insurance. Customs procedures are generally straightforward, but be prepared for your bags to be x-rayed upon entry.

Once you clear customs, you’ll find an official currency exchange office (CADECA) in the arrivals hall. It’s advisable to change a small amount of your cash (Euros or Canadian Dollars often yield a better rate than USD) into Cuban Pesos (CUP) here to cover your initial expenses like the taxi ride. Queues can be long, so be prepared for a wait.

For transfers into the city, you have a couple of reliable options. Official, state-run taxis are readily available outside the terminal; look for the yellow and black cars. It’s best to agree on the fare to your destination before getting in. Alternatively, for peace of mind, you can pre-book a transfer through your hotel or casa particular, which ensures a driver will be waiting for you with your name on a sign.

Navigating the City Streets

Havana’s streets are a living museum of transportation, offering a variety of ways to get around, each with its own unique character. From iconic vintage cars to bustling shared taxis, moving through the city is an experience in itself.

Classic American Cars

The gleaming Chevrolets, Fords, and Buicks from the 1950s are an undeniable symbol of Havana. It’s important to distinguish between the two main types. The meticulously restored, brightly colored convertibles parked near major tourist sites are primarily for city tours. These offer a fantastic, albeit pricier, way to see the sights. For point-to-point travel, locals use almendrones—the more weathered, hard-top classic cars that function as private or shared taxis. When taking a tour car, negotiate the route and price for the hour-long trip before you set off. For an almendrón, simply state your destination and agree on the fare.

Colectivos (Shared Taxis)

For an authentic and economical way to travel longer distances, such as from Old Havana to Vedado, look for the colectivos. These are typically classic American cars that run along fixed routes, picking up and dropping off passengers along the way. You can hail one by standing on the correct side of the road and using a hand signal to indicate your direction. Fares are exceptionally low, paid in CUP, making them the preferred mode of transport for many Cubans.

Bicitaxis and Cocotaxis

For short hops within a single neighborhood, bicitaxis (three-wheeled bicycle taxis) and cocotaxis (yellow, coconut-shaped auto-rickshaws) are ideal. They are perfect for navigating the narrow, cobbled streets of La Habana Vieja where larger vehicles cannot go. They offer a breezy, fun way to get around, but it is essential to agree on a price before your journey begins, as fares are not metered.

Walking: The Best Way to Explore

Ultimately, the most rewarding way to experience Havana is on foot. The historic core of La Habana Vieja and the atmospheric streets of Centro Habana are incredibly walkable. Strolling allows you to absorb the city’s vibrant energy, discover hidden courtyards, hear the distant sounds of a rumba, and witness daily life unfold. A comfortable pair of shoes is perhaps the most important item you can pack.

Where to Stay: Hotels vs. Casas Particulares

Deciding where to stay in Havana is a choice between two very different experiences. The city offers everything from grand, historic hotels to intimate rooms in private family homes. Your decision will fundamentally shape your visit, influencing your daily interactions and overall perception of Cuban life.

The Authentic Experience: Casas Particulares

For a genuine connection to Cuba and its people, staying in a casa particular is unparalleled. This is the Cuban equivalent of a bed and breakfast or private guesthouse, where locals are licensed to rent out spare rooms in their homes to travelers. It is arguably the most culturally immersive accommodation choice you can make.

• What is a Casa Particular? It is a government-licensed private homestay. Identified by a blue and white sign resembling an anchor, these homes offer a unique window into everyday Cuban life. You are not just a tourist; you are a guest in a family’s home, which provides a level of authenticity that a hotel cannot replicate.
• How to Book: In recent years, booking casas has become much simpler. Many are now listed on international booking platforms. However, for the more adventurous, it is still possible to arrive and find a room by looking for the official sign. If one casa is full, the owner will almost certainly know a neighbor or relative with a vacant room.
• What to Expect: The experience is defined by warm hospitality. Hosts are often excellent sources of local information, from the best nearby paladar to how to catch a.Santiago de Cuba colectivo. Opting for the home-cooked breakfast is highly recommended; it’s typically a generous spread of fresh fruit, eggs, bread, and strong Cuban coffee.

Government-Run and International Hotels

Havana’s hotels offer a more conventional travel experience, with a range of options from historic landmarks to modern establishments. While they may lack the personal touch of a casa, they provide amenities that can be difficult to find elsewhere.

• Pros: Hotels generally offer more reliable services, including consistent Wi-Fi (though still by international standards, it can be slow), swimming pools, concierge services, and on-site restaurants and bars. For travelers seeking comfort and convenience, they are a dependable choice.
• Cons: The primary drawbacks are the higher cost and a more sterile, less personal atmosphere. You are more insulated from the daily rhythms of the city and its residents.
• Notable Historic Hotels: For a touch of old-world glamour, consider a stay at the iconic Hotel Nacional de Cuba, perched on a hill overlooking the Malecón, or the Hotel Inglaterra, which has presided over Parque Central since 1875.

Best Neighborhoods for Your Stay

Your choice of neighborhood will dictate the ambiance of your trip. Each of Havana’s core districts offers a distinct character and pace of life.

La Habana Vieja (Old Havana)

Ideal for first-time visitors and history enthusiasts, Old Havana is a living museum. Staying here means you are steps away from the city’s main plazas, colonial architecture, and most famous landmarks. The narrow, cobblestone streets are filled with music, art, and the constant energy of both locals and tourists.

Vedado

This more modern district, developed largely in the first half of the 20th century, feels more spacious and residential. Known for its elegant art deco mansions, leafy avenues, and vibrant nightlife, Vedado offers a different perspective on Havana. It is home to cultural hubs like the Fábrica de Arte Cubano and the famous Coppelia ice cream parlor.

Centro Habana

Situated between Old Havana and Vedado, Centro Habana is the city at its most raw and real. The buildings are more dilapidated, the streets are bustling with activity, and the experience is intensely authentic. It offers a central location for exploring and a candid look at the daily struggles and triumphs of Habaneros.

Exploring the Heart of Havana: Key Sights and Neighborhoods

Havana is not a single entity but a collage of distinct neighborhoods, each offering a different rhythm and color. From the meticulously restored colonial core to the sprawling revolutionary monuments, the city unfolds its stories block by block. To truly understand Havana is to wander its streets, embracing its contrasts and its living history.

La Habana Vieja (Old Havana)

The historical heart of the city, La Habana Vieja is a UNESCO World Heritage site where time seems to have paused. Its cobblestone streets are flanked by baroque facades, colonial mansions, and sun-drenched courtyards. This is where you will spend much of your time, getting lost in a labyrinth of architectural beauty and vibrant street life.

• The Four Main Plazas: The district is anchored by four magnificent squares. Plaza de la Catedral is dominated by its asymmetrical baroque cathedral. Plaza de Armas is the city’s oldest square, a book-lover’s paradise with its daily secondhand market. Plaza Vieja is an eclectic, architecturally diverse space surrounded by colorful buildings and lively cafes. Finally, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, with its calming fountain and basilica, opens onto the harbor.
• Key Thoroughfares: Walk the length of Calle Obispo, the main pedestrian artery, bustling with shops, galleries, and musicians. Parallel to it, the restored Calle Mercaderes offers a quieter, more curated glimpse into colonial-era commerce.
• Historical Sites: Dominating the Plaza de Armas is the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, one of the oldest stone forts in the Americas. A short walk away, the magnificent dome of El Capitolio, the former seat of government, marks the edge of Old Havana and is a stunning architectural landmark, recently restored to its former glory.

Centro Habana

Situated between Old Havana and Vedado, Centro Habana is the city’s raw, unvarnished soul. Here, the grandeur is faded, but the energy is palpable. It is a densely populated neighborhood of crumbling tenements, bustling street markets, and an unfiltered look into the daily lives of Habaneros.

• Walking the Malecón: This iconic 8-kilometer-long sea drive is Havana’s great outdoor living room. During the day, fishermen cast their lines into the surf. As the sun sets, the Malecón transforms into the city’s primary social hub. Locals gather to talk, play music, romance, and simply watch the waves crash against the seawall. A sunset stroll here is an essential Havana experience.
• Callejón de Hamel: A narrow alleyway explodes with color and creativity. This community art project is a shrine to Afro-Cuban culture, with building facades turned into vibrant murals and found-object sculptures. Visit on a Sunday afternoon to witness exhilarating rumba performances.
• Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás: While the factory itself has moved its primary operations, the historic building behind the Capitolio remains a landmark. You can visit official cigar shops nearby to learn about the intricate art of hand-rolling Cuban cigars, a process that has changed little in centuries.

Vedado and Plaza de la Revolución

West of Centro, Vedado presents a different side of Havana. This 20th-century district is known for its leafy, grid-like streets, art deco mansions, and a more modern, residential feel. It is also home to some of the most significant symbols of the Cuban Revolution.

• Plaza de la Revolución: This vast, imposing square has been the stage for major political rallies. It is flanked by two government buildings bearing immense steel memorials of revolutionary figures: Che Guevara on the Ministry of the Interior and Camilo Cienfuegos on the Ministry of Communications.
• José Martí Memorial: The plaza’s centerpiece is a towering star-shaped monument to Cuban national hero José Martí. For a small fee, you can take an elevator to the top for some of the most expansive panoramic views of the city.
• Coppelia Ice Cream Parlor: More than just an ice cream shop, Coppelia is a cultural institution. Be prepared to queue with locals for a taste of its famous ice cream in a uniquely designed, park-like setting. It offers a fascinating glimpse into Cuban social life.

Further Afield

Venturing beyond the central neighborhoods reveals even more of Havana’s eclectic character. These destinations require a taxi but are well worth the effort for those looking to see a different facet of the city.

• Fusterlandia: In the fishing village of Jaimanitas, artist José Fuster has turned his home and much of the surrounding neighborhood into a whimsical, sprawling mosaic wonderland. Inspired by Gaudí, “Fusterlandia” is a surreal and joyful expression of public art.
• Playas del Este: About a 30-minute drive from the city center, you’ll find a string of white-sand beaches known as the “Eastern Beaches.” While not as pristine as resort areas like Varadero, they are the go-to coastal escape for Habaneros and offer a refreshing break from the city heat.

Quintessential Havana Experiences

Beyond the historical sights and architectural wonders, Havana’s soul is found in its everyday rhythms, sounds, and flavors. To truly understand the city, you must dive into the experiences that define its vibrant culture. These activities offer more than just a photo opportunity; they are a direct line to the heart of what makes Havana unforgettable. For a broader overview of what Cuba has to offer, check out our best things to do in Cuba.

Ride in a Vintage Convertible

The gleaming chrome and vibrant colors of classic American cars are an iconic symbol of Havana. Taking a tour in one of these beautifully maintained relics is a quintessential part of any visit. It’s a theatrical and exhilarating way to see the city’s landmarks unfold before you.

• Popular Routes: Most city tours follow a well-trodden path, cruising along the sweeping curve of the Malecón, pausing at the historic Plaza de la Revolución, and weaving through the leafy avenues of Vedado and the Miramar district. You can typically negotiate a one or two-hour tour with the driver.
• Best Time for Photos: For the most dramatic lighting and comfortable temperatures, book your ride during the late afternoon’s “golden hour.” The setting sun casts a warm glow on the city’s architecture and makes the seaside drive along the Malecón particularly spectacular.

Immerse Yourself in Live Music

Music is the lifeblood of Havana, spilling out from open doorways, courtyards, and grand music halls. From the intricate rhythms of Son Cubano to the energetic pulse of salsa, you are never far from a live performance. The city’s musicians are world-class, and experiencing their art is non-negotiable.

You can find authentic music in the plazas of Old Havana, in small, dedicated clubs known as casas de la trova, and in some of the city’s most renowned venues. For a classic experience, visit a Casa de la Música (there are locations in both Centro Habana and Miramar) for high-energy salsa bands. For something more contemporary and eclectic, the Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) is an essential stop, blending live music with art galleries, cinema, and dance performances in a repurposed cooking oil factory.

Learn to Dance Salsa

Watching Cubans dance with effortless grace and passion is one thing; joining in is another. Taking a salsa class is a fantastic way to connect with the culture and gain the confidence to step onto the dance floor. Many private instructors and dance schools offer drop-in classes for travelers. If you’re interested in learning more about this iconic dance, our guide to Cuban salsa can help.

• Finding a Class: Your casa particular host is an excellent resource for finding a reputable local instructor. Private lessons offer personalized attention, allowing you to learn the basic steps at your own pace.
• Hitting the Floor: Don’t worry about perfection. The key to Cuban salsa is feeling the music and having fun. Locals are often happy to dance with newcomers, so don’t be shy when you’re out at a music venue.

The Art of Cuban Cigars and Rum

Cuba’s two most famous exports are deeply woven into its national identity. Understanding their history and production provides insight into the island’s culture and economy. Visiting an official cigar factory offers a fascinating look at the meticulous, hand-rolled process from leaf to finished product. For a more refined experience, a Casa del Habano provides a climate-controlled environment where you can purchase authentic cigars and enjoy them with a coffee or rum.

For rum enthusiasts, the Havana Club Museum of Rum (Museo del Ron Havana Club) offers a comprehensive tour detailing the journey from sugarcane to aged spirit, culminating in a small tasting. It’s an excellent primer on the spirit that fuels many of Cuba’s famous cocktails.

Follow in Hemingway’s Footsteps

Nobel Prize-winning author Ernest Hemingway spent over two decades in Cuba, and his larger-than-life presence is still felt throughout Havana. You can trace his history by visiting some of his favorite haunts.

Start at the Ambos Mundos Hotel, where he lived for several years in the 1930s; you can visit Room 511, which is preserved as a small museum. Afterwards, make a pilgrimage to his two legendary watering holes in Old Havana. Visit La Bodeguita del Medio, the purported birthplace of the Mojito, and El Floridita, famous for its association with the Daiquiri. While often crowded, visiting them is a nod to the city’s rich literary and cocktail history.

A Taste of Cuba: Food and Drink

Cuban cuisine, or comida criolla, is a flavorful and hearty reflection of its complex history, blending Spanish, African, and Caribbean culinary traditions. It is a cuisine of resourcefulness, centered on slow-cooked meats, rice, beans, and root vegetables. Exploring Havana’s food scene is an essential part of understanding its culture, from humble street-side stalls to innovative private restaurants. For a broader culinary perspective, our Cuba travel guide offers insights into regional specialties.

Must-Try Cuban Dishes

While menus can sometimes feel repetitive, the core dishes of Cuban cooking are deeply satisfying when prepared well. Look for these staples to get a true taste of the island:

• Ropa Vieja: Arguably Cuba’s national dish, its name translates to “old clothes.” It consists of tender shredded beef slow-cooked in a rich tomato sauce with onions and bell peppers. It’s typically served with rice and beans.
• Moros y Cristianos: The name, meaning “Moors and Christians,” refers to the black beans and white rice that are cooked together in one pot, creating a flavorful and ubiquitous side dish that accompanies most meals.
• Lechon Asado: A celebratory dish, this is slow-roasted pork marinated in a tangy mojo sauce of garlic, sour orange juice, and oregano. The result is incredibly tender meat with crispy skin.
• Tostones: A classic side dish or snack, these are slices of green plantain that are fried, smashed flat, and then fried again until golden and crisp. They are often served with a garlic dipping sauce.

Eating Like a Local: Paladares

The most significant development in Cuba’s culinary scene has been the rise of the paladar. Understanding the difference between these and state-run restaurants is key to a good dining experience. State restaurants often have limited menus and inconsistent quality. In contrast, paladares are privately-owned and operated, usually by families. This independence allows for greater creativity, better service, and higher-quality ingredients.

These establishments range from simple dining rooms in a family’s home to sophisticated, chef-driven restaurants with innovative takes on traditional Cuban flavors. For an authentic experience, seek out a paladar tucked away on a residential street. For more contemporary dining, areas like Vedado and Old Havana host a number of renowned paladares that have gained international recognition. Booking ahead is often advisable for the more popular spots.

Sipping on Cuban Cocktails

Cuba’s contribution to global cocktail culture is undeniable, born from its world-famous rum. The island’s bars, from grand hotel lounges to neighborhood dives, are masters of the craft. While you can find a vast array of drinks, three classics form the foundation of Cuban mixology.

• The Mojito: A refreshing blend of white rum, fresh mint, lime juice, sugar, and soda water. While La Bodeguita del Medio claims its invention, you can find excellent versions all over the city.
• The Daiquiri: A perfectly balanced and elegant cocktail made from rum, fresh lime juice, and sugar, shaken with ice until frosty. El Floridita is its historic home, where it was famously enjoyed by Ernest Hemingway.
• The Cuba Libre: More than just a rum and coke, a proper Cuba Libre includes a generous squeeze of fresh lime, which cuts the sweetness of the cola and brightens the flavor of the rum.

To find the best cocktails, venture beyond the famous historical bars. Many paladares have excellent bar programs, and smaller, less-crowded establishments often take great pride in their craft. Don’t hesitate to ask a bartender for their recommendation; it’s a fine way to discover a new favorite. If you’re interested in Havana’s nightlife beyond cocktails, our guide to Cuba nightlife can offer more suggestions.

Practical Information for a Smooth Trip

Internet and Connectivity

Connecting to the internet in Cuba is a unique experience, quite different from what you might be used to at home. While access has improved significantly, it still requires some planning. Spontaneous browsing is not the norm; instead, think of it as a deliberate activity.

The most common way to get online is by purchasing a Wi-Fi card from ETECSA, the state-run telecommunications company. These cards provide a username and password for a set amount of time (e.g., one or five hours). You can then use this login at designated public Wi-Fi hotspots, typically found in parks, plazas, and major hotel lobbies. You’ll spot them easily by the clusters of people on their phones.

A more recent and convenient option is the tourist SIM card, Cubacel Tur. You can often pre-order this online for pickup at the airport. It offers a data package, along with some minutes and texts, allowing you to stay connected without being tethered to a hotspot. This is highly recommended for those who need more consistent access.

Given the intermittent nature of connectivity, preparation is key. Before you leave home, it is essential to:

• Download offline maps of Havana (Google Maps and apps like Maps.me are excellent for this).
• Download a Spanish translation app that works offline.
• Save digital copies of your travel documents, hotel confirmations, and any guides or articles you might need.

Health and Safety

Havana is widely considered a safe city for travelers, with a low rate of violent crime. However, like any major city, it’s wise to be aware of your surroundings. Petty crime, such as pickpocketing or bag snatching, can occur, particularly in crowded tourist areas like Calle Obispo or on public transport. Keep your valuables secure and out of sight, and avoid displaying large amounts of cash.

When it comes to health, the most important rule is to drink only bottled or properly treated water. Do not drink tap water, and be cautious with ice in drinks at smaller, less established venues. The food scene is vibrant, but stick to reputable paladares and restaurants to avoid stomach upset. It’s also a good idea to carry a small first-aid kit with essentials like pain relievers, antiseptic wipes, and any personal medications you require, as pharmacies can have limited stock.

While the dual-currency system (CUC and CUP) officially ended, its legacy can sometimes cause confusion. All prices should be in Cuban Pesos (CUP). Pay close attention when receiving change to ensure you are being given the correct amount. Most transactions are in cash, so having a good supply of smaller bills is helpful for both accuracy and convenience.

Cultural Etiquette and Tipping

Cubans are generally warm, friendly, and direct. A simple greeting goes a long way. Use “Buenos días” (Good morning), “Buenas tardes” (Good afternoon), or “Buenas noches” (Good evening) when entering a shop, restaurant, or your casa particular. Politeness and a smile are universally appreciated.

Tipping is not obligatory but is very much appreciated, as it forms a significant part of the income for those in the service industry. Here are some general guidelines:

• Restaurants and Paladares: A tip of 10% of the bill is standard for good service. Check if a service charge has already been included.
• Casa Particular Hosts: While not required, leaving a small gift or a tip for your host, especially if they have been particularly helpful, is a kind gesture.
• Guides and Drivers: For a private guide or a classic car tour driver, a tip of 10-15% of the tour cost is appropriate if you were happy with the experience.
• Musicians: Live bands in bars and restaurants will often pass a basket around. A small contribution is always welcome if you enjoyed the music.

You may encounter individuals on the street known as “jineteros” (hustlers). Their goal is to sell you something—cigars, a restaurant recommendation, or a taxi ride—for a commission. They are typically persistent but not aggressive. The best way to handle these encounters is with a polite but firm “No, gracias” and to continue walking. Engaging in conversation often encourages them. Be confident in your plans and don’t feel pressured into accepting unsolicited offers.