Kuna Culture of San Blas

The Kuna People: A Brief Overview

Who are the Kuna (Guna)?

The Kuna, who refer to themselves as Guna, are an indigenous people of Panama and Colombia. The vast majority reside within the San Blas Archipelago on the Caribbean coast of Panama. They inhabit the autonomous territory of Guna Yala, a politically independent region that they govern themselves. This unique political structure, known as a comarca indígena, grants them a significant degree of self-governance. They manage their own lands, resources, social systems, and laws with minimal interference from the Panamanian national government, preserving a way of life that is distinctly their own.

Language and Communication

The primary language spoken throughout the islands is Dulegaya. While many Kuna individuals, particularly those who interact with visitors through tourism or trade, also speak Spanish, English is not widely understood. A few words in their native tongue will be warmly received.

Social Structure and Daily Life

A Matriarchal Society

Kuna society is organized along matrilineal lines, a structure that places women in a central and respected position. Family lineage, inheritance, and property rights are passed down through the mother. Women are the primary owners of property, and upon marriage, a man traditionally moves to live with his wife’s family, contributing his labor to her household.

The ‘Congreso’ and Community Governance

Each island community is governed by a town meeting known as the Congreso, which is held in a large communal hut. Presiding over the Congreso is the Saila, who serves as the island’s political and spiritual leader, or chief. The Saila’s authority is absolute. It is essential for all visitors to understand they are guests in a self-governing territory and must show deference to the authority of the Saila and abide by the specific rules of the community they are visiting.

Subsistence and Economy

The traditional Kuna economy is based on subsistence fishing and agriculture. Small family plots on the mainland produce vital crops like coconuts, plantains, and yucca. In the modern era, tourism and the sale of traditional handicrafts have become a major source of income. The most significant of these crafts are the iconic molas. Coconuts remain a cornerstone of their economy, so much so that they were historically used as a primary form of currency for trade.

Art, Symbolism, and Dress

The Mola: A Woven Identity

The mola is the most celebrated art form of the Kuna people. It is a vibrant and intricate textile art created using a complex reverse-appliqué technique, where multiple layers of different colored cloth are stitched together and then carefully cut away to reveal the colors underneath. Kuna women create and wear these textile panels as the front and back of their traditional blouses. The designs are deeply symbolic, depicting geometric patterns, native animals, local legends, and representations of the spiritual world. Each mola is a unique and masterfully crafted piece of art that tells a story, serving as a profound expression of cultural identity and personal creativity.

Traditional Women’s Attire

• Mola Blouse: The centerpiece of the outfit, featuring the two detailed mola panels.
• Muswe: A printed headscarf, typically red and yellow, worn over the hair.
• Saburet: A wrap-around skirt, often made from a single piece of brightly printed imported fabric.
• Wini: Long strands of brightly colored beads are wrapped tightly around the forearms and lower legs, creating geometric patterns. These are believed to provide spiritual protection.
• Olasu: A distinctive gold nose ring, often worn through the septum by many women as a sign of beauty and status.

Cultural Etiquette and Respectful Interaction

Photography: Always Ask First

CRITICAL: It is absolutely essential to ask for permission before taking a photograph of any person, particularly women and children. A simple gesture with your camera and an inquisitive look is usually understood. Many individuals will request a small fee, typically one or two dollars, in exchange for allowing their picture to be taken. Please prepare for this by carrying small US dollar bills. This is an accepted and common practice; view it not as a nuisance, but as a direct and respectful transaction that compensates the individual for their time and image. Under no circumstances should you take photographs of traditional ceremonies or inside the Congreso hut unless you have received explicit permission from the Saila.

Purchasing Molas and Handicrafts

Purchasing molas and other crafts directly from the artisans who make them is the most impactful way to support the local community. It is acceptable to negotiate the price, but this should always be done gently, with a smile and a respectful demeanor. Aggressive haggling is considered offensive. When selecting a mola, appreciate the craftsmanship by looking for fine, even stitching, multiple layers of fabric, and complex designs. We encourage you to ask the artist about the story or meaning behind her mola’s design; this simple question can transform a purchase into a memorable and meaningful cultural exchange.

General Conduct

• Never enter a family’s home or private dwelling unless you are explicitly invited inside.
• Respect private property. The entire island, including every single coconut tree, is owned by the community or a specific family.
• Public displays of affection are not part of Kuna culture and should be avoided.
• If you choose to consume alcohol, please do so discreetly and in moderation.

Beliefs and Traditions

Cosmology and Spirituality

The Kuna possess a rich and complex cosmology. Their spiritual beliefs are centered on a great creator, Babdummad (Great Father), and a creator goddess, Nan Dummad (Great Mother). Their worldview does not separate the spiritual and natural worlds; they are deeply interconnected. Plants, animals, and natural phenomena all possess a spiritual essence. The community’s spiritual guides and healers are known as Neles (shamans), who have the ability to communicate with the spirit world.

The Sacred Coconut

The coconut palm is far more than a source of food and income; it is the economic lifeblood of Guna Yala and is woven into the fabric of their history and culture. Every single coconut tree on every island has an owner. Therefore, a clear and firm rule must be observed by all visitors: You must NEVER pick a coconut from a tree or even pick one up from the ground. Taking a coconut without permission is considered theft and is treated as a very serious offense by the community.