La Paz
La Paz: Discover urban charm and Andean culture

Ever dreamt of visiting a city perched precariously high above the clouds? La Paz, Bolivia, isn't just a destination; it's an experience that will redefine your understanding of altitude and adventure. For those wondering how to best experience this vibrant Andean capital, this guide is your essential starting point.
We'll take you on a journey through the City of the Clouds, covering everything from understanding its unique geography and acclimatizing to the thin air, to navigating its bustling streets and uncovering its most captivating attractions. Get ready to discover the heart and soul of La Paz.
Essentials
An Overview of the City in the Clouds
The World’s Highest Capital
To arrive in La Paz is to arrive in a different world, one where the air is thin and the landscape is breathtakingly severe. Officially, Sucre is the constitutional capital of Bolivia, but La Paz serves as the seat of government, making it the de facto highest capital city on the planet. Situated at an average elevation of 3,650 meters (11,975 feet), its altitude is the first thing visitors notice. The simple act of walking can leave you winded, and a period of acclimatization is not just recommended, it is essential.
The city’s topography is as dramatic as its elevation. La Paz is not built on a plain but rather spills down the sides of a vast canyon, a sprawling urban bowl carved into the Altiplano. Buildings cling precariously to steep hillsides, creating a chaotic yet mesmerizing cityscape of red-brick and concrete. Standing sentinel over this entire spectacle is the magnificent, snow-capped peak of Mount Illimani. At 6,438 meters (21,122 feet), its triple peaks form an iconic and ever-present backdrop, a sacred mountain that anchors the city to the sky.
A Tale of Two Cities: La Paz and El Alto
Understanding La Paz requires understanding its relationship with its sister city, El Alto. The two are inextricably linked, forming a single, sprawling metropolitan area, yet they are worlds apart. La Paz occupies the relative shelter of the valley below, historically the center for government, finance, and the colonial elite. Its winding, steep streets descend from the canyon rim toward the more affluent neighborhoods at lower, more temperate altitudes.
Perched on the vast, windswept Altiplano plateau above is El Alto. Once a sparse suburb, it has exploded into one of South America’s fastest-growing cities, a vibrant, bustling hub of commerce and Aymara culture. While La Paz is the established political heart, El Alto is the dynamic, industrial engine. Many residents of El Alto commute daily into La Paz for work, descending into the canyon via the city’s remarkable cable car system, a physical representation of the deep socio-economic connection between the city in the sky and the city on the plain.
A Fusion of Cultures
La Paz is a city defined by its rich cultural tapestry, a vibrant blend of indigenous heritage and colonial history. The presence of the Aymara and Quechua people is palpable everywhere, from the bustling markets where women in traditional bowler hats and layered *pollera* skirts sell their wares, to the Witches’ Market. This living indigenous culture is the bedrock of the city’s identity.
Layered over this is the indelible mark of Spanish colonialism. The city’s historic core, with its grand plazas, ornate churches, and narrow cobblestone streets, speaks to a different era. The architecture, particularly the Mestizo-Baroque style seen in buildings like the BasĂlica de San Francisco, reveals a fascinating synthesis of European techniques and indigenous motifs. This fusion of worlds—Andean and European, ancient and colonial—is what gives La Paz its unique character, creating a city that is at once deeply Bolivian and universally captivating.
Navigating La Paz: Getting Around and Acclimatizing
Arriving and Adjusting to Altitude
Your introduction to La Paz begins the moment you step off the plane at El Alto International Airport (LPB), one of the highest international airports in the world at over 4,000 meters (13,125 feet). The thin air is immediately noticeable. The key to enjoying your time here is to respect the altitude and give your body time to adjust. Rushing into strenuous activity on your first day is a common mistake that can lead to altitude sickness (soroche).
To acclimatize effectively, consider these simple but crucial steps:
- Rest: Plan for a very relaxed first 24 to 48 hours. Walk slowly, avoid heavy lifting, and get plenty of sleep.
- Hydrate: The high-altitude air is very dry. Drink plenty of water throughout the day, more than you might normally consume.
- Embrace Coca Tea: Locally known as mate de coca, this mild herbal infusion is a traditional remedy used for centuries to alleviate the effects of altitude. It is widely available in hotels and cafes and is a gentle way to begin your adjustment.
- Eat Lightly: Avoid heavy meals and excessive alcohol during your first couple of days, as they can interfere with the acclimatization process.
Riding the Sky: The Mi Teleférico Cable Car System
One of the most remarkable aspects of La Paz is its public transit system, Mi Teleférico. This is the world’s largest urban cable car network, a clean, efficient, and breathtakingly scenic way to navigate the city’s complex topography. What began as a solution to traffic congestion has become an essential experience for any visitor, connecting the lower-lying city center with the sprawling plateau of El Alto.
Beyond its practicality, the Teleférico offers some of the most spectacular and accessible panoramic views of La Paz. For a minimal cost, you can glide silently over rooftops, markets, and canyons, witnessing the city’s scale against the backdrop of the Andes. For sightseeing, a few lines are particularly noteworthy:
- The Red Line (LĂnea Roja) provides a classic and dramatic view as it ascends from the former train station, passing over the General Cemetery and offering a sweeping vista of the city center nestled in its bowl-shaped valley.
- The Silver Line (LĂnea Plateada) runs along the edge of El Alto, connecting other lines and offering unparalleled, wide-angle views of La Paz with the majestic Mount Illimani dominating the horizon.
On the Ground: Taxis, Trufis, and Walking
While the Teleférico handles the vertical, ground transport is essential for exploring specific neighborhoods. Taxis are plentiful and affordable, but it’s advisable to use registered “radio taxis,” which you can call or have your hotel arrange, especially at night. Agree on a fare before you begin your journey, as meters are not always used.
For a more local experience, you can use trufis—shared minibuses or vans that run on fixed routes. They are incredibly cheap, though understanding their routes can be a challenge without some local knowledge. Simply watch for locals hailing them and shouting their destination.
Finally, exploring La Paz on foot is both a challenge and a profound reward. The steep, winding streets will test your lungs, particularly as you acclimatize, but walking is undoubtedly the best way to absorb the city’s vibrant energy. It allows you to discover hidden alleyways, stumble upon bustling markets, and appreciate the intricate details of colonial architecture at your own pace. Just remember to take it slow and wear comfortable shoes.
Core Attractions: Exploring the Heart of La Paz
The heart of La Paz beats with a vibrant mix of indigenous tradition, colonial history, and modern urban life. A walk through its central districts reveals a city of fascinating contrasts, where ancient spiritual markets thrive next to stately government buildings and quiet colonial lanes offer respite from the bustling streets.
The Witches’ Market (Mercado de las Brujas)
Wandering into the Mercado de las Brujas is an unforgettable sensory experience. The narrow streets are lined with small shops and stalls overflowing with a curious array of goods. Here you’ll find heaps of dried herbs, colorful powders, carved talismans, and most famously, desiccated llama fetuses. These are not mere curiosities; they are essential components of Aymara rituals, traditionally buried under the foundations of new buildings as an offering, or cha’lla, to the goddess Pachamama (Mother Earth) to ensure protection and good fortune.
This market is a living center of indigenous spirituality. It serves the local community who come to purchase items for ceremonies or to seek advice from yatiris, local folk healers who can be seen in traditional dress offering to read fortunes in coca leaves. For visitors, it offers a profound and respectful glimpse into the spiritual beliefs that remain deeply woven into the fabric of modern Bolivian life. To understand more about the country’s cultural tapestry, explore our guide to Best Events in Bolivia, which often highlights indigenous traditions.
Plaza Murillo and the Political Center
As the political nucleus of Bolivia, Plaza Murillo is the nation’s grand stage. This historic main square is framed by the country’s most important buildings: the Presidential Palace, also known as the Palacio Quemado (“Burnt Palace”) due to its turbulent history; the imposing home of the National Congress of Bolivia; and the elegant, neoclassical La Paz Cathedral. The plaza is named after Pedro Domingo Murillo, a hero of the independence movement who was hanged here in 1810.
Despite its formal and often solemn role in national affairs, the plaza has a relaxed, everyday atmosphere. It is a favorite spot for Paceños to gather, feed the immense flocks of pigeons, and relax on benches under the watchful eye of the presidential guard. It’s an ideal place to sit and observe the rhythm of the city, where political history and daily life converge. Understanding the local context can help with planning your trip; consider our Key Facts of Bolivia for essential background.
Calle Jaén’s Colonial Charm
A short walk from the city’s main thoroughfares, Calle Jaén feels like a portal to another era. This narrow, beautifully preserved cobblestone street is one of the few places in La Paz that retains its original colonial character. Lined with brightly painted 18th-century houses featuring traditional wooden balconies and glowing lanterns, the street offers a quiet and picturesque escape from the urban energy.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, Calle Jaén is a small cultural hub, home to a cluster of intimate museums. Visitors can explore the Museo de Metales Preciosos (Museum of Precious Metals), which houses pre-Columbian gold and silver artifacts, or the poignant Museo Litoral, which chronicles the history of the War of the Pacific and Bolivia’s subsequent loss of its coastline. The street’s quiet ambiance and historical significance make it a highlight for any walking tour. When exploring La Paz, getting around is made easier with our guide to Getting around in Bolivia.
BasĂlica de San Francisco
Dominating the plaza of the same name, the BasĂlica de San Francisco is one of La Paz’s most significant religious and architectural landmarks. Constructed in the mid-18th century, its stone facade is a masterful example of the Mestizo-Baroque style. This unique architectural fusion blends traditional European religious iconography with distinct indigenous motifs. A close look at the carvings reveals not only Christian figures but also native symbols like snakes, birds, and masked faces, representing a powerful synthesis of two worlds.
The expansive Plaza San Francisco in front of the church is a constant whirlwind of activity. It serves as a major transportation hub, a meeting point for locals, and a stage for street performers and vendors. The energy of the plaza, combined with the historical weight of the basilica, makes this area a true microcosm of La Paz life. For those interested in the broader offerings of the country, our guide to Best Things to do in Bolivia covers a range of experiences.
Beyond the Center: Unique Urban Landscapes
Valley of the Moon (Valle de la Luna)
A short journey from the urban core of La Paz transports you to a landscape that feels entirely extraterrestrial. The Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon, is not a valley in the traditional sense but rather a maze of canyons and towering spires. Over centuries, persistent wind and rain have eroded the mountainside, carving the clay and sandstone into a dense network of badlands. The formations are stark and beautiful, with a palette of beige, pale red, and deep ochre that changes with the light of the day.
Designated walking paths allow visitors to meander through this surreal environment. To reach the valley, located about 10 kilometers from the city center, you can take a taxi or a local bus. Many tour operators also include it as part of a half-day city tour, which can be a convenient option. For those looking for more adventurous pursuits, consider exploring the Best hikes in Bolivia.
Mirador Killi Killi
To truly comprehend the dramatic geography of La Paz, a visit to a viewpoint is essential. While the Teleférico offers moving perspectives, Mirador Killi Killi provides a stationary, 360-degree panorama that puts the entire city into context. From this vantage point in the Villa Pabón neighborhood, you can observe the city’s dense urban fabric spilling down the canyon walls, the central government buildings around Plaza Murillo, and the vast, flat expanse of El Alto on the plateau above. The ever-present, snow-capped Mount Illimani provides a formidable backdrop.
The viewpoint is accessible by a steep walk or a short taxi ride. For photography, the late afternoon light is particularly favorable, as the setting sun casts a warm glow over the city’s brick buildings and accentuates the shadows in the surrounding mountains.
The Spectacle of Cholita Wrestling
Every Sunday in El Alto, a unique cultural performance unfolds that blends sport, social commentary, and tradition: Cholita Wrestling. Here, Aymara women, known as Cholitas, enter the wrestling ring dressed in their iconic, vibrant multi-layered skirts (polleras), elegant shawls, and distinctive bowler hats. What follows is a spirited display of Lucha Libre-style acrobatics and theatrical combat.
More than just entertainment, the event is a powerful expression of female empowerment and indigenous identity. The narrative often pits the heroic Cholita against various villains, playing out themes of justice and resilience. It is a loud, colorful, and engaging spectacle that offers a fascinating glimpse into a contemporary aspect of Aymara culture, far removed from the typical tourist trail. For those interested in the unique characters of Bolivia, our guide to Celebrities of Bolivia might offer further insight.
A Taste of La Paz: What to Eat and Drink
The culinary landscape of La Paz is as dramatic and varied as its topography. Rooted in hearty Andean ingredients and shaped by centuries of cultural fusion, the city’s food offers a delicious journey for any visitor. From savory street-side snacks to warming, high-altitude stews, exploring Paceño cuisine is an essential part of the experience. For a deeper understanding of the country’s offerings, explore our guide to the best things to do in Bolivia.
Must-Try Bolivian Dishes
While the options are vast, a few quintessential dishes form the backbone of Bolivian cuisine and are readily found throughout La Paz.
- Salteñas: This is Bolivia’s most beloved snack. A baked pastry with a distinctive teardrop shape, the salteña is filled with a savory, slightly sweet, and juicy stew of meat (beef or chicken) and vegetables. The key is to eat it without spilling the rich broth inside—a skill that locals have perfected. They are typically enjoyed in the morning.
- Sopa de ManĂ: A classic comfort food, this rich and creamy peanut soup is a staple. Often made with beef ribs or chicken, potatoes, and pasta, its nutty flavor is both unique and deeply satisfying, providing welcome warmth in the cool Andean air.
- Chairo: This traditional Aymara stew is a perfect example of high-altitude cuisine. It’s a hearty, flavorful soup made with chuño (freeze-dried potato), lamb or beef, wheat, and various Andean vegetables. It is a nourishing dish designed to combat the cold.
- Pique Macho: A dish for those with a serious appetite, Pique Macho is a heaping platter of chopped beef, sausages, french fries, onions, and peppers, all topped with boiled eggs and a spicy locoto chili sauce. It’s a social dish, often shared among friends.
- Silpancho: Originating from Cochabamba but popular everywhere, Silpancho consists of a very thin, breaded cutlet of beef served over a bed of rice and potatoes, and topped with a fried egg and a fresh salsa of tomatoes and onions.
Street Food and Local Markets
To truly eat like a local, you must explore the city’s vibrant markets and street food stalls. Head to Mercado Lanza or Mercado Camacho, bustling central markets where you can find multi-level food courts serving authentic and affordable meals. Navigating the busy aisles and finding a seat at a communal table is an experience in itself.
On the streets, keep an eye out for popular snacks. Tucumanas are deep-fried pastries similar to salteñas, offering a different texture and flavor. For the more adventurous, anticuchos are a must-try. These skewers of grilled beef heart, marinated in a flavorful blend of spices and vinegar, are a popular evening snack, often served with a roasted potato and peanut sauce. Don’t forget to sample the incredible variety of fresh fruit juices (jugos), blended on the spot from exotic fruits like tumbo or chirimoya. For those interested in souvenirs, check out our guide on handcraft, shopping and souvenirs to bring back from Bolivia.
The Drinks of the Andes
The beverages of La Paz are deeply connected to the land and its culture. The most ubiquitous is mate de coca, or coca tea. Made by steeping the leaves of the coca plant, this mild herbal infusion is an integral part of Andean life. It is widely offered to visitors to help alleviate the symptoms of altitude sickness and is a gentle, warming drink enjoyed throughout the day. Understanding vaccination & health requirements to visit Bolivia can also be helpful for planning your visit.
For something stronger, Bolivia’s national spirit is Singani. This aromatic brandy is distilled from Muscat of Alexandria grapes grown in the high valleys. It is crisp, smooth, and highly versatile. The most classic way to enjoy it is in a Chuflay, a refreshing cocktail made with Singani, ginger ale or lemon-lime soda, and a slice of lime. It’s the perfect drink to unwind with after a day of exploring the city’s steep streets. Learning about the budget to visit Bolivia can help you plan for enjoying these local delights.
Day Trips and Epic Adventures from the City
La Paz serves as a remarkable base camp for some of South America’s most iconic adventures. From adrenaline-fueled descents to serene high-altitude treks and explorations of ancient civilizations, the city is a gateway to the diverse landscapes of Bolivia. For those looking for more adventure, consider exploring the best hikes in Bolivia.
Biking the Death Road (Yungas Road)
Once notoriously known as the “World’s Most Dangerous Road,” the Yungas Road is now a legendary route for thrill-seeking mountain bikers. The journey begins near La Cumbre pass at a chilling 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) on the barren Altiplano and descends over 3,500 meters into the lush, humid Amazonian jungle town of Coroico. The ride takes you from breathtaking mountain vistas through waterfalls and dense foliage, offering an unparalleled sense of accomplishment.
While the experience is unforgettable, its reputation is rooted in real danger. Choosing a reputable and safety-conscious tour operator is not just a recommendation; it is absolutely essential. A professional company will provide high-quality, full-suspension bikes, proper safety gear (helmets, gloves, jackets), experienced guides trained in first aid, and support vehicles. Do not compromise on safety for a lower price; your well-being depends on the quality of the operator you select. Understanding how to get around in Bolivia can also be helpful for planning such excursions.
Hiking in the Cordillera Real
The jagged, snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Real form a stunning panorama visible from La Paz, beckoning hikers and climbers. This mountain range offers accessible high-altitude trekking for various skill levels. For seasoned mountaineers, the ascent of Huayna PotosĂ (6,088m / 19,974ft) is a classic objective. Often billed as one of the most accessible 6,000-meter peaks in the world, it is nonetheless a serious undertaking that requires proper acclimatization, physical fitness, and the expertise of a certified mountain guide.
For those seeking incredible views without the technical demands of mountaineering, several day trips are available. A visit to Chacaltaya, once the world’s highest ski resort, offers a drive to over 5,000 meters and a short hike for panoramic views of the range. Alternatively, treks in the Tuni Condoriri area provide stunning scenery of glaciated peaks and turquoise alpine lakes, offering a profound sense of Andean wilderness just a few hours from the city.
Tiwanaku Archaeological Site
A journey into Bolivia’s deep past awaits at the Tiwanaku archaeological site, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located about 70 kilometers west of La Paz. This was the capital of a vast and influential pre-Incan civilization that flourished for centuries. Exploring the expansive ruins offers a fascinating glimpse into the advanced astronomical knowledge, architectural prowess, and spiritual beliefs of the Tiwanakota people.
Key structures within the complex evoke a sense of ancient mystery. Visitors can walk through the semi-subterranean temple with its enigmatic carved stone heads, stand before the monolithic statues of spiritual leaders, and admire the precision of the Kalasasaya temple. The most iconic structure is the intricately carved Gateway of the Sun, a single, massive block of andesite believed to have functioned as a calendar, which stands as a testament to the ingenuity of this powerful civilization. For context on the country’s history and people, consult our key facts of Bolivia.
Practical Traveler’s Guide
Best Time to Visit
La Paz’s high-altitude climate creates two distinct seasons, each offering a different experience for travelers. Choosing when to go depends on your tolerance for cold and your planned activities, particularly if they involve trekking or mountaineering.
- Dry Season (April – October): This is generally considered the best time to visit. You can expect crisp, clear blue skies and brilliant sunshine, which provide stunning views of Mount Illimani and the surrounding Cordillera Real. However, temperatures drop significantly after sunset, and nights can be very cold, often dipping below freezing. This is the ideal season for hiking and adventure sports.
- Wet Season (November – March): The summer months bring warmer temperatures but also frequent, and sometimes heavy, afternoon rain showers. The landscape becomes lush and green, but cloud cover can obscure the mountain views. While travel is still very possible, be prepared for rain and potential disruptions to road travel, especially in rural areas.
Health and Safety
A visit to La Paz is an incredible experience, but its unique environment and urban landscape require some practical precautions. Being prepared will ensure your trip is both safe and enjoyable.
- Altitude Sickness: It’s essential to reiterate the importance of acclimatization. Upon arrival, plan to rest for at least the first 24 hours. Avoid heavy meals and alcohol, stay well-hydrated by drinking plenty of water, and consider sipping on mate de coca (coca leaf tea), a local remedy used to alleviate mild symptoms. If symptoms persist or worsen, seek medical advice.
- General City Safety: La Paz is generally safe for tourists, but it’s wise to practice standard urban precautions. Be mindful of your belongings in crowded areas like markets and bus terminals. At night, it is highly recommended to use registered radio taxis, which can be called from your hotel or a restaurant, rather than hailing a cab on the street.
- Travel Insurance: Given the popularity of adventure activities like biking the Death Road or mountaineering, comprehensive travel insurance is non-negotiable. Ensure your policy covers high-altitude trekking and emergency medical evacuation, providing peace of mind as you explore the region’s more extreme landscapes.
Currency, Costs, and Connectivity
Navigating the logistics of money and communication in La Paz is straightforward. The city remains one of South America’s most affordable capitals, making it an accessible destination for various budgets.
- Currency: The official currency is the Boliviano (BOB). While some larger hotels and tour agencies may accept US dollars, you will need Bolivianos for daily expenses like meals, transport, and market purchases. ATMs are widely available throughout the city center, and currency exchange houses (casas de cambio) offer competitive rates.
- Costs: La Paz is a very budget-friendly destination. Accommodation, food, and public transportation are all reasonably priced. You can enjoy a hearty set lunch (almuerzo) for just a few dollars at a local market or dine at a high-end restaurant for a fraction of what it would cost in Europe or North America. For more details on planning your finances, check out our budget to visit Bolivia guide.
- Connectivity: While Wi-Fi is common in hotels and cafes, it can often be slow and unreliable. For consistent internet access, the best option is to purchase a local SIM card. Providers like Entel or Tigo offer affordable prepaid data plans, and their kiosks are easy to find throughout the city, including at the airport.